Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can the brake pistons be pushed into the caliper somewhat?

Yeah all four pistons on each side go in fine (well, as well as they normally do), otherwise I wouldn't have been able to get the new pads in.

what a nightmare! lol sounds like you're having a few issues, when I changed my pads over i had my disc's machined, did you bleed your brakes?

and when you bed them in never come to a full stop.

Also when i went to change my turbo the other day i only had 3 bolts lol! so yeah track days do loosen them ahah

I was gonna come to Calder spewing i didn't :(

what a nightmare! lol sounds like you're having a few issues, when I changed my pads over i had my disc's machined, did you bleed your brakes?

and when you bed them in never come to a full stop.

...

Nope didn't machine the rotors or bleed the brakes. Pedal feel is fine, perhaps needs a touch more pressure than before, which I attribute to the skewed pad wear.

Bedding in was done correctly, following the QFM instructions: http://qfm.com.au/userfiles/files/BEDDING-IN-PROCEDURE.pdf

...

But yeah track days are tough on the car, in addition the what's already listed earlier:

  1. The oil cooler hose weep is slowly getting worse, so I will have to get the hoses replaced soon: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462362-oil-cooler-too-eager-faulty-thermostat-or-incorrect-temp-sensor-location/?p=7678751
  2. There's an occasional high RPM misfire, which I hope is the coil packs, so I've chucked in brand new Splitfires last night

It's big $/km on the track I tell you...

100% its the shims.

We saw exactly the same thing on EBC Yellow Stuff pads (900 degree rating) on the rear of Honda S2000 models.

The shim they supplied only covered half the area it needed to, took all of 2 seconds to work out the pad was forced to run skewed.

Told RDA and EBC about it with pictures with shims and without shims, problem gone....they still supply the shims....

  • Like 1

100% its the shims.

We saw exactly the same thing on EBC Yellow Stuff pads (900 degree rating) on the rear of Honda S2000 models.

The shim they supplied only covered half the area it needed to, took all of 2 seconds to work out the pad was forced to run skewed.

Told RDA and EBC about it with pictures with shims and without shims, problem gone....they still supply the shims....

Thanks mate! I'll get the discs machined and put fresh pads in without the shims, see how we go.

100% its the shims.

We saw exactly the same thing on EBC Yellow Stuff pads (900 degree rating) on the rear of Honda S2000 models.

The shim they supplied only covered half the area it needed to, took all of 2 seconds to work out the pad was forced to run skewed.

Told RDA and EBC about it with pictures with shims and without shims, problem gone....they still supply the shims....

Would you recommend dropping the inner full shims also, or just the outer halfies?

very unlikely to be shim related, most likely you have seized pistons in both calipers, or potentially a wheel bearing issue (although less likely to happen on both sides).

I've just checked the hub play by lifting the car up and grabbing the wheel 12-to-6, can't really feel any. There's a little play in the steering when going sideways 9-to-3, which I suspect is the original tie rod ends.

I've got a full set of new Remsa pads, I'll get the rotors machined, ditch the half shims on all front pads and see how I go. Fingers crossed.

Only remove the shim that goes half way.

Replace it with a full shim or No shim, nothing wrong with no shim, if your worried about noise you can buy sound absorbing stick-on backing pads or lightly smear some copper grease on any metal to metal pad to caliper contact points such as where the pistons push to the back of the pads.

In the case we had, we just removed the shim and ran without one, we just smeared a little copper grease on the backing plate to caliper contact points.

No more side wear, all the others that still run the half backing plates still have the sideways wear pattern.

  • Like 1

I got the car back from the workshop today:

  • All rotors machined
  • New pads all around
  • All front half shims and clips removed
  • Gear oil changed (went with Shockproof Light again)

They also worked out that the leak at the front top left of the engine was the cam seals. We then decided to do the whole timing belt + belts + pulleys + water pump service kit whilst at it, so it got expensive really quickly... Lucky it was done though, couple of the pulleys were in a pretty bad shape.

Anyway Duncan was right, the front brake pistons are starting to seize. So next up it's either rebuild time, find replacement OEM calipers, or go aftermarket. I'll run it as is for a while whilst deciding...

Thanks for all your help and input everyone!

  • 2 weeks later...

Anyway Duncan was right, the front brake pistons are starting to seize. So next up it's either rebuild time, find replacement OEM calipers, or go aftermarket. I'll run it as is for a while whilst deciding...

...

Ok rebuild us going to be in the $500 ballpark, depending... Options:

1. Bite the bullet and do it

2. Replace with second hand OEM calipers of unknown history

3. Aftermarket brake kit

Rest of the front is fine Inc rotors pads lines so would be nice to get some use out of those...

Suggestions?

I'd go either 1 or 3, and it depends what you are doing and planning to do with the car in the next 2 years. I can't see why good, standard brakes wouldn't be sufficient for street/light track use, especially if you run semi slicks on the track.

2 is just a path to more pain, everything is 20years old by now....

  • Like 1

Anyway Duncan was right, the front brake pistons are starting to seize. So next up it's either rebuild time, find replacement OEM calipers, or go aftermarket. I'll run it as is for a while whilst deciding...

...

Ok rebuild us going to be in the $500 ballpark, depending... Options:

1. Bite the bullet and do it

2. Replace with second hand OEM calipers of unknown history

3. Aftermarket brake kit

Rest of the front is fine Inc rotors pads lines so would be nice to get some use out of those...

Suggestions?

Anyway Duncan was right, the front brake pistons are starting to seize. So next up it's either rebuild time, find replacement OEM calipers, or go aftermarket. I'll run it as is for a while whilst deciding...

...

Ok rebuild us going to be in the $500 ballpark, depending... Options:

1. Bite the bullet and do it

2. Replace with second hand OEM calipers of unknown history

3. Aftermarket brake kit

Rest of the front is fine Inc rotors pads lines so would be nice to get some use out of those...

Suggestions?

Tbh, I would go option 1) then consider upgrading the brakes if you find out that what you have just absolutely cannot cut the mustard.

It'll either happen eventually and you will want more stop power but getting there and having fun at the track is a good way to find that limit. And if you find you never need to replace them then eh you haven't gone to the track that much and as a result don't really justify a $2k+ brake kit.

Either way, you win out. Its not too hard to sell a set of front GTT brakes when/if you decide to upgrade later, especially if you have a receipt from them being rebuilt at XYZ shop on XYZ date.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...