Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guy i have a 94 bnr32. looking to rebush rear lower ctrl arms, rear upper ctrl arms, rear knuckle bushes and finally the subframe bushes, rear lower shock bushes with whiteline products. has anyone fitted these? any issues? sorry to ask guys but i just would hate to order the wrong ones or ill filtting units. i hear of some horror stories from the z32 fairlady guys where some of these bushings didnt fit due wrong outside diameters.

mine were done by my mechanic when my diff bushes started clunking, it is subframe out and its a big job but your doing it the right way, do it all at once.

whiteline are good, i havnt heard much about them being bad sizes.

when you have it out look at what else you can do easily when the ass end is apart, hicas delete, swaybars, all fluids, hows the condition of your diff, boots, shafts, brakes, suspension components. its better to spend a bit more and do anything else in that area as its basically just money for parts, the labors about the same.

look at prices through KUDOS if you havnt already bout the parts. also are you pressing them out or burning them ect.

@GHO5T so did u use all the whiteline products? Do you have a bnr32? Did you have an issue with height difference with the whiteline subframe bushes? Not sure if burning or press. I would prefer to press. Did you do the rear lower ctrl arm bushings?

I did all mine with whiteline stuff recently, contact Sydneykid on these forums he has all the part numbers.

It is a job best left to a mechanic unless you want a few solid days' worth of fun. And much harder without a press

  • Like 1

OEM bushes are a major PITA to get out, aftermarket bushes go in no worries (unless they're steel sleeved). I've done front control arms and rear camber, HICAS and diff bushes 'at home' - with and without access to a workshop press - and can't recommend enough leaving it to a professional.

If you want to give it a go start with some of the arms that you can pull out of the car completely and see how you go. Getting the metal sleeve out is the worst part. Make sure you use something that matches the OD of the sleeve exactly to get it out neatly. Many people use sockets, some use a hacksaw, neither are the best for this job.

Always measure OD and ID of all bushes before commencing with the swap - my SPF diff bushes with triple-checked part number were about 1mm off (too big OD) with no chance in hell going into the subframe.

Oh and diff bushes can be done on the car if you've got special tools.

Subframe out is a big job as you need to pull the hubs off. For what you're wanting to do I'd say 1-2 days labour at a workshop so you're looking at a couple off grand for the whole rear. Or you can spend a week DIY'ing it ;)

Good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
×
×
  • Create New...