Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I recently got back from holiday and saw that my carbon fiber hood on my R34 is fading and it looks really disgusting. It looks like the gel coat (or is it clear coat?) has been fading under the sun. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this before and could help me out on what products I can use to polish this out.

20160319_165002_zpsalzjzal4.jpg

20160319_164954_zpsvuz63ua4.jpg

It hasn't gone through to the actual c/b. The coat still looks thick.

20160320_103846_zpsrxukthkl.jpg

Here's a pic of the carbon fiber exposed on the end of the hood just to show how thick the coat ontop of the c/b is

I'm not sure if it's gel coated or clear coated

I would love to get it all shiny and have a reflection in it

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463742-restoring-my-carbon-fibre-hood/
Share on other sites

You need to go visit a panel beater.

They probably won't re-clear it for you

Uh ok. I really thought I could buff this out my self with a special polish.

Would you recommend a good panel beater that does this type of stuff? And how much would they charge?

Carbon is laid up with epoxy resin. If the resin is poor quality it can oxidize and turn white like that. Try wet sanding it back with 2000 grit sand paper and polish. If the white stuff comes back to a glaze after a wet sand and polish then you're fine. If it comes up ok, I'd shoot come good quality clear paint over the top to protect it from UV.

That cracked bit looks like it needs to be reset in resin. 1:1 clear UV stable epoxy is what you want.

If you haven't used it before it can be a bit tricky. Go watch a few youtube videos and try something before attempting your bonnet fix yourself.

It probably won't get that "as new" look but hopefully that will help you out.

Carbon is laid up with epoxy resin. If the resin is poor quality it can oxidize and turn white like that. Try wet sanding it back with 2000 grit sand paper and polish. If the white stuff comes back to a glaze after a wet sand and polish then you're fine. If it comes up ok, I'd shoot come good quality clear paint over the top to protect it from UV.

That cracked bit looks like it needs to be reset in resin. 1:1 clear UV stable epoxy is what you want.

If you haven't used it before it can be a bit tricky. Go watch a few youtube videos and try something before attempting your bonnet fix yourself.

It probably won't get that "as new" look but hopefully that will help you out.

Cheers for that. This is the response I was looking for.

I did try and polish the bonnet before you posted that comment. I bought Meguiars Scratch X 2.0 for about $20 at supercheap and buffed the shit out of it.

20160320_183843_zpscvksr9q6.jpg

There is still white cloudyness underneath the surface but shit.... it looks better than before. I am going to sand it down with grit 1000 or 2000 (are you sure 2000?). Then buff it with a cutting compound and then wax. I'll see what comes out of it the next time I have time. If it fails then I'll go to plan D and put a new clear coat on

If its under the surface you need to sand back to at least that depth. Polishing wont do anything (unless you polish long enough to get down to the effected layer.)

Once you've gotten to that layer just be really careful not to go too far. Hopefully that layer is still in the clear/gel coat and you can polish it up nicely afterwards.

FWIW I'm not sure it would matter if it was gel or clear as the same polishing would be required on either (happy to be corrected here tho.)

I'd be really carful tho, I'm not sure how much longer it will last after you've done this work. Australian sun is destructive. :(

How old is the bonnet and was it from a reputable company or a Chinese knock off? (Will give you an idea of the quality of materials used)

If its under the surface you need to sand back to at least that depth. Polishing wont do anything (unless you polish long enough to get down to the effected layer.)

Once you've gotten to that layer just be really careful not to go too far. Hopefully that layer is still in the clear/gel coat and you can polish it up nicely afterwards.

FWIW I'm not sure it would matter if it was gel or clear as the same polishing would be required on either (happy to be corrected here tho.)

I'd be really carful tho, I'm not sure how much longer it will last after you've done this work. Australian sun is destructive. :(

How old is the bonnet and was it from a reputable company or a Chinese knock off? (Will give you an idea of the quality of materials used)

Ok, thanks for the advice :)

I purchased the car a month ago from someone. They didn't say where they bought the bonnet from, just got passed onto from the last seller. So I have no idea. I did manage to search a similar (or it might be this exact one) bonet online.

http://jsai.com.au/index.php/online-store-90942/nissan-r34-gtt-z-tune-style-carbon-fibre-bonnet-detail

Looks exactly like mine, so maybe it could be from here? Who knows

"Made from high quality clear resin, carbon fibre and finished in a high gloss clear gel coat."

Edited by Joni Boi

Ok here's an update on my faded bonnet. I've sanded and buffed out the white cloudy oxidation (or what ever you call it) out of the bonnet and got it to look almost brand new, so I'll leave this here for other people to see.

I wet sanded my bonnet with 1500 grit sand paper. It took ages for me to get deep enough to the damaged layer of the clear resin. So I went to bunnings and bought 800 grit sand paper and it worked much faster keeping in mind that I did not sand through to the actual carbon fiber. Only sanded it down to the shitty layer.

20160323_205753_zpsfbxdnhpr.jpg

It took me alot of hours to get it sanded down as this bonnet has alot of vents and od shapes

After wet sanding it with 800 grit I then wet sanded it with 2000 grit sand paper.

Then I let it dry and polished it with Meguiar's clear coat safe polishing compound. The next process was polishing it with Meguiar's scratch x 2.0 to get those little scratches out left behind from the sanding and buffing.

20160326_091746_zpsebufbyyn.jpg

Both of these were about $20-$30 a bottle at supercheap. I only needed 1 of each.

Here's the finished results:

20160325_115005_zpsyvmjgygt.jpg

20160326_091146_zps9ronbfvr.jpg

I was planning to spray another clear coat on after sanding but the compressor I have does not work any more. I am going to sand it again and spray on a new coat when I get a new compressor for my spray gun.

It's a temporary fix as the sun will eat through it again but I'm happy with the outcome.

Edited by Joni Boi
  • Like 4

Nice job! I highly recommend putting clear on it, even if you use some spray can clear. But don't go cheap get some decent stuff.

Also regular wax and uv sealant will help protect it as well.

I bought this from autobarn

20160326_091245_zps6upsg49t.jpg

I don't know if this is the right one, but I'll give it a try next time.

Do you know if I need to mix anything with it like thinners?

Edited by Joni Boi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...