Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

please help this is driving me nuts lol.

I'm upgrading injectors and I can't get it to fit. I bought a raceworks r33 rail kit, and xspurt 1000cc injectors. First I tried fitting it with the injector collars but the stock plenum fouls on the top of the rail. So then I tried plugging the injectors straight into the rail (without the collars) and it still wont clear the plenum! I'm sure that I've seen heaps of people using the raceworks rail and xspurt 1000s so I don't understand what I'm doing wrong. Any advice? Supplier said he sells many of these exact kits to fit r33s without issues. pics below.

post-133052-0-15522900-1460533359_thumb.jpgpost-133052-0-91449600-1460533360_thumb.jpgpost-133052-0-72839200-1460533436_thumb.jpgpost-133052-0-14782400-1460533440_thumb.jpg

Edited by mistermeena
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464210-injector-upgrade-problems/
Share on other sites

To fit the injectors under the stock plenum I believe you require 1/2 length injectors.

This guide was written by an SAU member :)

http://www.trak-life.com/diy-converting-top-feed-injectors-r33-gts-t-skyline-rb25det/

Edited by Jordy32

ah bugger I was told this kit would go straight in. In that case does anyone sell the shorter spacers that go under the bolts to mount the rail?

It doesnt look to me like I can shave the plenum back enough to make it fit.

Edited by mistermeena

ah bugger I was told this kit would go straight in. In that case does anyone sell the shorter spacers that go under the bolts to mount the rail?

It doesnt look to me like I can shave the plenum back enough to make it fit.

You'll need a new rail if you want to use those injectors or go half height injectors and use that rail but you'll need to cut down the spacers.

Or refund it and get what you were oringally promised.

I done this before with a cheap rail, it can work, it isn't easy and in the end we talkin bout a few mm of it fitting.. it probably will require some custom welding of shit/shaving to make it work

Should have just gotten 1/2 height injectors to begin with lol

  • Like 1

Here is one i prepared earlier lol..

post-70965-0-23256000-1460594481_thumb.jpg

You can see the pipe underneath was removed and brass fitting installed uptop to make that hose easier to get on, and some shaving near that welsh plug, a fabricator can do this easy or if your local you can have this one...

Edited by AngryRB

yeah the seller is exchanging the injectors for the 1/2 height ones instead, and I'll just have to take some careful measurements and get the spacers machined down. I dont want to be grinding and welding on the plenum when I know that there are kits that fit straight in and I don't want the rail too close to the plenum anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...