Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

16 hours ago, Duncan said:

I'm very happy with my similar setup on the race car, I've run up to 1hr enduro races on them and targas etc with no issues. These are a bargain at the posted price even if they need a reco

Pads easy to find? Good ones? or need some searching around?

I had less options than when I was running the 33/34 Brembos, for instance I could not get my preferred hawk ht-60, however there were still plenty of good brands to choose from; Winmax, Pagid, SBS are ones I've used in them. Its a pretty common porsche caliper not something wierd

 

  • Like 1
I had less options than when I was running the 33/34 Brembos, for instance I could not get my preferred hawk ht-60, however there were still plenty of good brands to choose from; Winmax, Pagid, SBS are ones I've used in them. Its a pretty common porsche caliper not something wierd
 


Thanks Duncan. Will definitely have a think!
2 hours ago, BunsenBurna said:

Minko the forum tells me you can't receive messages!

Have deleted some messages - hopefully works now?

 

No issues with brake bias, car was run on street, circuit, street sprints by myself and previous owner and setup was perfect.  

 

On 11/01/2017 at 8:10 PM, Duncan said:

I had less options than when I was running the 33/34 Brembos, for instance I could not get my preferred hawk ht-60, however there were still plenty of good brands to choose from; Winmax, Pagid, SBS are ones I've used in them. Its a pretty common porsche caliper not something wierd

Duncan sorry to bombard you but since you're the expert on this setup, have you run this ok with ABS?

Also with the dog bones/adapters, any chance they would suit R34 GTT or would you need to re-drill or re-tap them or the uprights? From memory R32/33 might be 12mm bolts whereas 34 is 14mm (or vice versa)?

c'mon guys this is a for sale thread not a brakes discussion. I wanted to add some information which might assist the sale but seriously, at $800 this is an awesome deal.

I still run ABS in the race car, I have no balance problems or ABS issues although I have chosen to run different pads front and rear.  The seller would have to confirm details about the bracket but the one on mine is an excellent piece of 5mm steel angle. Obviously I don't know bolt size on this sale but if it is larger than your hub (ie M14 into M12 hub) you could drill out the hub easily, and if the bolt is smaller than the hub size (ie M12 into M14 hub) then you could do nothing (because it will be fine once torqued) or use 12-14mm sleeves if you are concerned.

  • Like 1
At least one offer has been made pursuant to the recent discussion so good result I'd say...
Seal kit anyone?!

See page one of this thread for the seal kit :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...