Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I understand from previous replies that the power steering solenoid on the rack acts in such a way as follows:

1) At no voltage applied a plunger is retracted via internal spring and this opens a port that releases pressure from the input of the rack to make steering feel heavy (bleeds off pressure supply). I confirmed this on mine.

2) When applying voltage It worked the plunger at as little as a 9V battery and polarity was not a factor (swapping poles made no difference to operation). I did NOT try lower voltages (sorry). When this is energized, the bleed hole is plugged off and all pressure goes through the rack for very light steering feel.

3) The HICAS computer sends a squar(ish) 123 Hz wave of varying voltages to this solenoid under different modes of operation (found in another thread here). This is basically changing duty cycle of the wave depending on vehicle speed.

at 0 km/hr the solenoid sends roughly 4.4-6V which is approximately 32-47% duty cycle (at 14V).

at 100 km/hr the solenoid sends roughly 1.5-2.2V which is approximately 11-16% duty cycle (at 14V).

4) When removing Hicas parts (or if something in the system is bad) the HICAS computer may disable this function (de-energize the solenoid) and leave the solenoid in constant bleed state (see #1 above).

Here's my plan:

Use a spare Digital Pulsed Output (DPO) from my Haltech PnP Platinum pro (R32) to control the output based on speed of the vehicle. I will need a digital relay for this and use one output from the aux harness.

I added a DPO as an output and called it "Generic Duty Cycle Output" set at 123 HZ in the software and then made a table with 0-200 mph (yes mine is set to mph), and used 50% duty cycle for 0 mph and 0% for 70mph and up and then just linearized the table in between these values. This way I am going to run high duty on low speeds and linearly decrease duty until hitting 0% steering assist at all speeds over 70mph (so when I'm cruising on the highway my solenoid gets a break totally).

Has ANYONE tried this before? I'm going to be getting my car running soon and am currently setting up the Haltech wiring and I/O's. I just wanted to see if anyone has tried this yet.

Thank you,

Patrick

  • Like 1

I haven't tried it. What you are doing should work.

The best place to start would be to use an oscilloscope to measure what the solenoid sees (from the factory HICAS ecu) and log it then replicate that in the haltech.

  • 3 weeks later...

After getting the car done the steering doesn't feel bad at all. Probably not worth changing tbh. I'll save the pulsed output for something more useful (like fans, etc).

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Mine is running through my Link G4+

Being that I have removed the factory dash and replaced it with a IQ3 Digital Dash, it no longer sends the signal to the ECU to control the speed sense valve on the power steering.

I'm not entirely sure what I/O my tuner has connected it to, but it works just like it used to with the factory dash.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...