Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know the signal range for an RB26 oil pressure sensor? 0-5V?

I want to switch the stock oil pressure sensor with something more accurate and reliable that sends the same signal voltage. i replaced my stock sensor with a genuine Nissan sensor, but i think my Nitto oil pump killed it already. I eventually want to put a Haltech in my BNR32. i can buy a haltech sensor and run the stock pressure sensor for the gauge but i would like to find a same voltage range sensor that would give an accurate reading for both the haltech and the factory gauge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464919-oil-pressure-sensor-upgrade/
Share on other sites

The standard sensor is 0-5v but I've never seen the calibration for it to confirm if its the same as the generic one Haltech uses....most likely it is the same or sufficiently similar (considering you don't exactly get an exact reading from the stock gauge.....)

In any case your oil pump doesn't damage your pressure sender.....time and 000s of klm of vibration do. They are a reasonably common failure, just replace the standard one....in your case I'd go second hand if you intend to go aftermarket ECU soon anyway

So i wired the AUX 0-5v output from my AEM 0-150 oil pressure gauge to the factory oil pressure pigtail. The gauge didnt show any signs of life but now my climate control display is looking pretty screwed. Not sure if its coincidence or not.

IMG_44521_zpsdcjmeldc.jpg

Edited by Thomas0zero

First thing i did when i bought the car was replace the bad oil pressure sensor. Oil pressure was strong after that. But after i rebuilt the engine that new sensor worked fine for a while then quickly started showing low or no pressure. Worried, i replaced it with the AEM and oil pressure was 90+psi cold at idle. I dont want aftermarket gauges in the car so i was hoping for an alternative to the stock sensor that would allow the stock gauge to function accurately.

Sorry am I missing something here or are u trying to read pressure off your temp gauge. I am a bit confused.

I would like to read oil pressure from the stock gauge but looking for a more accurate sensor. After a couple days the heater controls started working normal again.

Correct me if I am wrong but I thought the stock oil pressure SWITCH is just a single wire 5v switch. I don't know what they are calibrated to read between in terms if their range 0-100psi ? 0-150 psi ?

If you're installing a 3 pin pressure SENSOR then the ecu needs to be calibrated to read the range correctly otherwise it won't know what to display. If you're still running a stock ECU then how are you going to calibrate the sensor correctly?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...