Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got some stuff laying around that I need to get rid of. I don't have a GTR anymore and need money for transfer cases and gearboxes.

Everything posted is in working condition.

GTR spoiler - $150

GTR side skirts - $200

mirrors - $50

GTR grille mesh - $50

boot liner - $50

gear knob - $50

HICAS motor - $100

Rear window wiper motor - $100

Brand new Nismo thermostat - $75

Seat rail for aftermarket seat- $50

Brand new GTST/ 32 GTR brake pads QFM A1RM - $50

Everything must go.

I'm willing to post Aus wide at your expense.

post-84720-14644842422865_thumb.jpg

post-84720-14644842646611_thumb.jpg

post-84720-146448427717_thumb.jpg

post-84720-1464484291163_thumb.jpg

post-84720-14644843227349_thumb.jpg

post-84720-14644843391729_thumb.jpg

post-84720-1464484351538_thumb.jpg

post-84720-14644843630879_thumb.jpg

post-84720-14644843782752_thumb.jpg

post-84720-14644843908394_thumb.jpg

post-84720-14644844040671_thumb.jpg

post-84720-14644844887022_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465072-nsw-fs-r33-gtrgtst-parts/
Share on other sites

Updated list

GTR OEM spoiler - $150

GTR side skirts - $200

•mirrors - SOLD

•GTR grille mesh - SOLD

boot liner - $50

gear knob - $50

HICAS motor - $100

Rear window wiper motor - $100

•Brand new Nismo thermostat - SOLD

Seat rail for aftermarket seat- $50

Brand new GTST/ 32 GTR brake pads QFM A1RM - $50

Updated list

GTR OEM spoiler - $150

GTR side skirts - $200

•mirrors - SOLD

•GTR grille mesh - SOLD

boot liner - $50

gear knob - $50

HICAS motor - $100

Rear window wiper motor - $100

•Brand new Nismo thermostat - SOLD

Seat rail for aftermarket seat- $50

•Brand new GTST/ 32 GTR brake pads QFM A1RM - SOLD

Price drop

GTR OEM spoiler - $100

GTR side skirts - $150

•mirrors - SOLD

•GTR grille mesh - SOLD

boot liner - $20

gear knob - $20

HICAS motor - $50

Rear window wiper motor - $50

•Brand new Nismo thermostat - SOLD

Seat rail for aftermarket seat- $20

•Brand new GTST/ 32 GTR brake pads QFM A1RM - SOLD

PRICES SLASHED!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

Bump.

Some more price adjustments.

Oem spoiler - $75

Oem side skirts - $100

Gear knob is sold

Boot liner - free but you have to pick up

Hicas motor - $50

Rear wiper motor - $25

Seat rail - free but you have to pick up

Take my shit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...