Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had a weakened door lock actuator for a while in my R34 sedan, meaning that one of the doors had to be locked manually each time, not ideal. 
I managed to chase down the replacement part from the wreckers and finally got around to replacing it.

This is not a full DIY but here's the general outline, mostly as a note to self for next time:

  1. For instructions on how to remove the inside door panel go here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285604-tutorial-r34-gtt-door-panel-removal-guide/ . That guide is for a coupe but sedan front door is very similar. Note to disconnect the window switch plug, push in the clip on the underside of it
  2. Remove plastic lining inside the door. Take care with the gooey black glue, it spreads easily and sticks everywhere.
  3. Remove rectangular metal brace from the door (4 screws) to give better access to the inside of the door end.
  4. Remove the bottom screw of the window slide/guide and jiggle it out of the door.
  5. There are a lot of mechanical arms (thick wire looking things) going everywhere, they are the fun part of this puzzle. Most of them disconnect the same way: At each end, rotate the plastic clip thing to the side first to release it, then pull the end of the arm out of the hole. Remember there are two ends to each arm – only disconnect the easier end, not both.
  6. The door lock/actuator assembly is held in place by the three large screws at the edge of the door where the latch is.
  7. To get the assembly out you'll need to rotate is slightly to get it out of the O-loop in the door lock arm coming down from the top.
  8. I'm pretty sure there's a wiring connector for actuator but I got over excited with wire cutters so oh well.
  9. Once you've got the assembly out you can replace the actuator only, or the whole assembly, depending on what you have. 
  10. To re-assemble, follow the steps in reverse. Make sure you put every single arm back the same way.
  11. Test everything before you put the door panel back on: door handle and locking mechanism inside and out, central locking on/off, window up/down. Note that for the window to work you'll have to reconnect the window switch plug.

It took me a while to work out that the window slide/guide needed to come out of the way first. Generally it's an easy job, just fiddly.

  • Like 2
  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

So the passenger door lock is playing up again, annoying. I just pulled it apart but can't see anything wrong; it's a convoluted mechanism but all the arms seem to be connected correctly.

I'm not sure if my replacement actuator is a dud (or just old), or whether there's something else wrong with the mechanism. It seems like the actuator doesn't 'trigger' consistently when the central locking is engaged or disengaged. I wonder if it could be a power/wiring fault...?

Anyone else had this issue in their R34, any suggestions? 

  • 3 months later...

Hey man, yeah I accidentally found my front passenger door in my 4 door r4 was not locking or unlocking it I pushed the locking tab inside the car. I stripped the door car off the stumbled across your walkthrough which I must say is very good and easy to follow! My actuator doesn't seem to move much and sometimes only one way, is this what you had? My mechanism seems tough too though but I've blasted it with silicone spray.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...