Jump to content
SAU Community

DR30 transmission differences?

JCubed

By JCubed,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

JCubed Newbie

JCubed

Posted
Posted

With my recently aquired 83 RSX (Iron Mask) I received a second transmission. In my research I managed to track down the first US based owner that purchased the second transmission. In our discussion he said that he had found that the Turbo C came with a stronger trasnmission. The issue is I am having a hard time confirming this, or even how to confirm that this is an 84+ transmission. 

So far I have been able to find the transmission's in FJ20et models were FS5W71B. I do know there are a few variations as this was a popular Nissan transmission even today it seems. The only information I can find are two part numbers, 3201007S61 for 83 cars prior to August and 3201007S60 for August 83 to 85. Even if that were the case being an August 83 car I should already have the later transmission.

If there are variations specific to the Skyline, any documentation or details as to what they might be? I might end up swapping the transmission anyway to try and eliminate a grind I get shifting in to reverse.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466344-dr30-transmission-differences/
Share on other sites
admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

Not really on topic but you could try some nulon smooth shift additive or replace oil with redline shockproof and see if it remedies the grind into reverse. Would save yourself a heap of work if it fixes it and also keep the spare box for down the track. Unless you've already tried this of course.

JCubed Newbie

JCubed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If I decide not to swap it that's definitely in the plans. I'm not sure when the last fluid change was on the trans and diff. How difficult is transmission removal on these? I was underneath working in suspension the other day and it seems pretty accessible. I'm used to working on my z32 where transmission pulls aren't the easiest.

The reverse issue is hit and miss. Sometimes it does it once when I start driving, other times it will happen a few times. I find that if I make sure I pull the gear lever to the right hard when shifting it usually doesn't grind.

Im hoping the transmission I have sitting is in fact different so I have another excuse to work on it.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I don't know specifically about dr 30 transmissions, but the  numbers you posted above (3201007S61 for 83 cars prior to August and 3201007S60 for August 83 to 85 ) is the nissan part number. Sadly the full nissan part number is not generally not stamped on a part, but using Nissan Fast you can find the correct part number for any given VIN code and also there is no reverse lookup from the part number to donor cars either

  • 10 months later...
BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

I was led to believe that the FJ20ET FS5W71B had wider gears than the FJ20E version of the same box (or L-series etc. etc.)
Suggest that you get into the habit of stopping the car, engaging 1st, then engaging reverse - that way the 1st synchro stops all the internals 'gently'.
Sometimes things don't line up and it won't go into reverse. In which case, going for another forward gear prior to reverse will do the trick.

If you want to upgrade the box, then get an FS5W71C from an R32 GTSt. Some custom parts are required, but you'll end up with a more modern system with dual-synchros.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...