Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone!

I'm new to this forum, i am finding these forums to be very educational and time consuming during work hours :jump:

Just wonder if someone can list what needs to done on a regular say 10,000km service on a R33 Gts-t?

And also can someone recommend somewhere to get my car serviced in Canberra?

Thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46650-servicing-your-r33/
Share on other sites

Hi Trader33, welcome.

To service your car, you'll want to:

- Change the motor oil and oil filter... every 5,000kms.

- Change your spark plugs... coppers, every 10k kms, iridiums, much longer. :)

- Change your coolant fluid... erm... umm... I've changed mine twice for the 30k kms I've had my 33, so... every 10k kms? :D

- Change your fuel filter. I get the mechanic to do this whenever I'm getting something else done... or you could do it yourself if you want, @ $15 for the filter... I'd do it at 10k km mark.

Anyone want to add anything on? There's guides here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35442

Hi Trader33, welcome.

To service your car, you'll want to:

- Change the motor oil and oil filter... every 5,000kms.  

- Change your spark plugs... coppers, every 10k kms, iridiums, much longer. :)

- Change your coolant fluid... erm... umm... I've changed mine twice for the 30k kms I've had my 33, so... every 10k kms? :rofl:

- Change your fuel filter. I get the mechanic to do this whenever I'm getting something else done... or you could do it yourself if you want, @ $15 for the filter... I'd do it at 10k km mark.

Anyone want to add anything on? There's guides here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35442

isnt the fuel filter every 100,000km? i changed mine, but that was related to a stalling issue.

trader33 - if you live in Canberra then go to All Make Automotive in Garran, beside the Mobil servo or TEZ automotive in Mawson.  Highly recommend them.

I'd also recommend the Mobil servo at Garran - see the thread in the ACT section about servicing :)

isnt the fuel filter every 100,000km? i changed mine, but that was related to a stalling issue.

No, you're thinking of the timing belt. :)

I honestly don't know what the 'correct' period for the fuel filter is, but considering I put (on average) 300-400 liters of fuel (that came from dirty underground tanks) per month into the engine (via a dirty fuel tank from the car), and they're so dirt cheap (pun intended) to buy, it doesn't hurt to change them regularly. Besides, a new filter will eliminate another suspect in tracking down problems.

  • 1 month later...

What Fanny said. :mad:

I've never actually changed a fuel filter myself (don't like getting fuel on me hands)... but you should be able to get a code off the old filter. You don't *really* need 'CODE XYZ' filter, since it's not actually fitting onto anything mechanical like an oil filter fitting onto the side of a block. You just need one that will fit in the hoses snuggly.

I get mine changed by the mechanic and it costs like $12 in 'parts'.

its easy to get one hose off but a pain in the ass to get the other one off.  after hlf an hr of blisters and cursing i just cut the damn thing!!  quite an easy job to do though and i did notice the car to be alot smoother after it.

:werd:

both hoses were a little stubborn on the weekend, patience.....lots of patience (not a stanley knife) got mine off.

placebo or not?!?! seems to be running better.

Shouldn't be too placebic... you're replacing something that was restricting the fuel flow (when it's very dirty)... it should start easier, be smoother, blah blah blah.

Did you have to seal off the hose from the tank, or did you just let it drain out?

i doubt it's placebic (is that a new word??!! nice!) too, genuinely feels better but i am a sceptic at heart.

i didn't seal off the hose, there was a small amount of return from downstream, upstream was no problem. if it wasn't for the goddam @#>*#@ difficult hose removal it would have been reasonably neat. i contemplated plugging the lines after i pulled the filter off but any spillage was well and truly done by then.

best thing to do when changin the fule filter is to remove the fuse for the fuel pumo....then crank the car. IT'll stall once it's used all the fuel in the lines...then put the fuse back in and away u go...no fuel in the lines :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...