Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need help installing a gtx3076r to my rb25det

I have a stock turbo setup on my RB25DET and received my first turbo replacement today, the gtx3076r. I wanted to know what parts I need to complete the installation, thanks! 

The standard turbo is a T3 flange so the turbo will bolt up in factory position providing you haven't got a special rear housing like a tial one. The downpipe will need to be modified to match the v band flange rather than the garrett 5 bolt pattern. Then custom air intake and intercooler pipe work. I'd imagine you can make the standard water lines work with a slight bit of tweaking oil feed may need to be a custom braided line

The gtx3076r is a T3 .82. How will I have to modify the downpipe to match the v band? Do I need new gasket rings, inlets, outlets, any other connections?

Edited by Eric0

Don't forget injectors, boost controller, wastegate, ECU and a tune. You'll also need a Z32 airflow meter unless you're going with a MAP sensor. The 10mm spacer is put in between the turbo and the manifold to prevent the compressor housing from touching the cylinder head. Just fabricate a new down pipe that will bolt onto your existing exhaust system, but you'll need a V-band flange to attach onto the turbo.

Then there's the clutch to support the power, tyres and wheels for traction, possibly coilpacks etc

You didn't mention if it's internal or externally gated. The process is a lot simpler and cheaper if it's internally gated.

Edited by AeroZR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...