Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clutch bite point suddenly changed.

Hey Guys and Girls.

So i drove my car home from work and was working perfectly fine. got in the car a couple hours later to go for a drive, and all of a sudden the clutch bite had gone to the very bottom of the pedal. with the clutch fully pressed it if i left my foot out what feels about 1-2 cm the clutch is biting.

i checked were the pedal is on the push rod and it is as far back as possible. The master cylinder looks full.

any ideas on what it could be ??  is my clutch screwed ?? or the something wrong with the master cylinder ?  since I've owned the car if you sit in neutral with the clutch pedal out there is a slight spinning noise from the gearbox but goes away when the pedal is pressed in, not sure if that has something to do with it.

 

Cheers in advance :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467881-clutch-bite-point-suddenly-changed/
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Kinks said:

bite point change means clutch pivot bolt may have failed.  common thing.  search for it

slight noise with clutch out is normal

 

If the clutch pivot bolt failed would i lose the clutch 100% ?? because i can still just change gears.

Clutch diagnostics 101.

If hydraulic failure, then pushing pedal 100% will result in much smaller action of slave rod than expected.  Unable to tell you which end of the hydraulics is failed across the internet.

If pivot ball failure, then pushing pedal 100% will result in satisfactory extension of slave rod, however the gubbins inside the bellhousing won't wangle the action as much as it should.

5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Clutch diagnostics 101.

If hydraulic failure, then pushing pedal 100% will result in much smaller action of slave rod than expected.  Unable to tell you which end of the hydraulics is failed across the internet.

If pivot ball failure, then pushing pedal 100% will result in satisfactory extension of slave rod, however the gubbins inside the bellhousing won't wangle the action as much as it should.

makes sense, i'll get under the car tomorrow and have a look.

how much travel should there be with the slave rod ??

Got under the car to have a look at the gearbox to see how much the slave cylinder is moving the when the clutch is pressed in.

here is a video off it.

Thinking the problem might be inside the box, as the slave cylinder seems to be moving enough.

but when taking the slave cylinder off, was able to move the end of the fork back towards the rear of the car about a couple of cm's. so where it is sitting at the start of the video the rod from the slave cylinder could still be pressed back into the slave cylinder more.

 

should the slave cylinder be compressed back into it self more or ??

 

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...