Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

45v2 turbo on 21u rear housing

Hey guys just looking over my engine bay and remember reading a thread about all the 45v turbos and what the numbers mean.

i got given a spare turbo with the car when i bought it and was told it had a gtr turbo on it, (i knew next to nothing about turbos as this is my first turbo car), but i still didnt beleive him straight away as he had less teeth in his head than a toddler. 

but looking at the two turbos, the one on my car now is 45v2 on a 21u rear housing,

and the spare is a 45v1 on the op6 rear housing.

just wondering if anyone knows why it would have been swapped around (as i can gather). 

and should i change it back so that its running the 45v2 neo turbo on the op6 rear housing?

picking your brains as im not all the smart with this stuff.

cheers in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468782-45v2-turbo-on-21u-rear-housing/
Share on other sites

Don't forget GTRs have two turbos so each will not be massive. If all your stuff is stock it will be old and worn. If you can have the car off the road for a bit get Hypertune to do you a rebuilt turbo - either near stock if you want or more power if that's your goal.

Yeah i would like to get my turbo highflowed someday soon, but the question is. When i send it in, should i pull the 45v2 compressor housing off and put it with the op6 rear housing or is it better with the 21U rear house, any advantages or disadvantages with either combination. Or should i just call hypergear and ask them what they would reccomend, as its them that will be doing the work?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...