Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cutting Gears

Hey

Does anyone know of a business in Aust that cut gears?

I rang a number of engineering places in Perth today - but had no luck.  

Quick search on Google - i found these guys.......http://www.wagears.com.au/ 

After some back and forth they asked me to come in with the gears I want cut - which I'll do in the next day or so.

Anyone have any experience in this / know of any shops that can do gear cutting?

Thanks guys

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468783-cutting-gears/
Share on other sites

I don't have any direct experience with having gears cut, and would have tried engineering shops like you did....

But why do you need a custom gear cut? Do you want something special in gearbox or diff ratios? Surely it will be an expensive step

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468783-cutting-gears/#findComment-7806831
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

I don't have any direct experience with having gears cut, and would have tried engineering shops like you did....

But why do you need a custom gear cut? Do you want something special in gearbox or diff ratios? Surely it will be an expensive step

Hey 

Thanks for your reply. To explain; I have a 6 speed sequential Trust/Greddy box.  When I collected the car after it arrived from Japan - there was always a issue with reverse.

It just wouldn't hold - as you start to reverse it would pop out.  The in Sept 16 - driving along casually - go to change gears - jams - stuck in second - no gears.

Pull the box out - 1 to 6 all good.  Reverse (all 3 parts), 2 shifter arms and selector rod all stuffed.  Now the fun begins - dealing with Quaife.

After waiting for a response and getting nothing - we have gone through one of their agents in NZ.  Finally some correspondence.  Selector Rod they have - all other parts to be made - when - they can't say.  I am required to put in a order - and they will do it as a batch some time later - 3 months, 6 months, etc - no time frame given,  So basically if I wait for them to make me 3 reverse gears - the car is off the road for a year - or I buy another box!!  

Regards

Dan

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468783-cutting-gears/#findComment-7806854
Share on other sites

Thanks Bob - much appreciated.  I took my gears to WA GEARS today - spoke with them - left it with them - they will let me know by Friday if they can do it.

If they can't - I will drop you kiwi brothers a email.  

If I have no luck - Ill order just order parts I need from Quaiffe and put that box aside and look at buying a OS88 - probably second hand.

There's one on Gum Tree at the moment for 13k - Hoxton Park area.

Fingers crossed WA GEARS know their sh*t and can do it.

Thanks again Bob.

Dan

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468783-cutting-gears/#findComment-7807011
Share on other sites

Well WA GEARS was a bust.  Wont even waste my time explaining my experience with them - just don't bother.

Well that's forced my hand - will order the parts I need from Quaiffe and wait.  Car will be off the road for a while.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468783-cutting-gears/#findComment-7807992
Share on other sites

As a last resort there are a couple of gear cuttters in Melbourne I've dealt with that would be worth talking to.  Ronson Gears and Hardman Bros are tow that I know off and I have no doubt there would be heaps more in Melbourne.  Could be worth a chat to them.  I was looking to get some oil pump parts made a few years ago and they were both very helpful.  You can just send the part to them and they will measure it all up and cut them to match.

Good luck with it!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468783-cutting-gears/#findComment-7808037
Share on other sites

Thanks for your suggestion Ewan.

I was only looking for a solution to speed up the repair process - but I think it will be best to just wait it out and get the manufacturer to make the parts.

List of items needed to be re-made sent today.  

Thanks again to all those who offered advice.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468783-cutting-gears/#findComment-7808045
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...