Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 Running Rich, Rough and Struggling to Start

Hi all,

New to the site after trying to find answers through existing posts and come up with nothing

1993 R33 RB25DET (bought it NA and put the RB25DET in it) its been sitting for a year before I decided to register it.

was running somewhat fine misfiring and rough on high boost through gears but idled ok. 5 weeks into it and its overfuelling extremely strong blowing black smoke and sounds like a wrx no matter what speed im doing. on start up whether it was hot or cold it sounded like a dead battery but eventually wound over, this is progressively getting worse taking longer and longer to wind over, when it does wind over it takes a while to start (thinking fuel issue)

im getting 350km out of a tank and extremely fuelly inside and out of the car.

pinging when boosting

was wanting advice for where to look first? was thinking to test coil packs, maybe the CAS (a tune maybe?) suspected timing issue maybe?

standard motor and ecu with the usual mods.

I am using the non turbo exhaust could that play a part?

any help appreciated so I can start eliminating potential causes. thinking maybe its running advanced can I alter this via the CAS?

mechanically minded on naturally aspirated cars but bring fuel injection and ECUs in and im lost

A CAS wouldn't stop your motor from winding over.  What boost are you running?  Timing and other stuff wouldn't stop you winding over, a timing belt that is out could, but it has to be out a lot and then you are in even more trouble. 

Sounds like hydraulic lock, but I can't figure out how unless the fuel pump is still alive and you have a leaking injector - but that's unlikely.

 

Cleaned the injectors? Replaced the fuel filter? Running the DET ECU? Set correct base timing?

How many litres is "a tank of fuel"? If you are continually boosting, then 350k might not be such a bad consumption rate.

Your starting problems - maybe a bad earth, or a dying starter motor.

its running standard boost, fully serviced although I haven't checked the injectors as yet a full tank as in around 45-50 litres. I thought it was initially the starter however when you pump the throttle it seems to have some sort of affect in starting, I can hear the fuel pump kick in on reds and at lights I can hear it click on and off so im assuming that's ok??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...