Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Was looking at bidding on an SII auto R33 GTST.

 

But it's a stolen recovery which has no keys available and the ignition barrel is damaged.

 

Question 1: How do you get the car out of park to roll it off a tow truck?

 

Question 2: How expensive is this to source parts and fix including sourcing a new key?

 

Just weighing up if it's worth the hassle.

He is a member here...from the Gong.  I recently gave him a heap of spare bits and pieces I CBF'ed offloading.  In the load was an ignition and key for an automatic....not sure what year.

I have sent him a PM.

Did have his mobile number but I must have deleted it...sorry.

Nooooo . . . the Gumtree one is from a manual !

Take the plastic surrounds off the steering column, remove the ancillaries around the column so you can get access to the to security bolts that hold the ignition lock onto the column shaft on the left hand side. Then with a center punch and a small hammer you'll have unwind the screws by taping them until they loosen up. Its a time consuming and difficult job to get them started. Alternatively you can drill them out but this can be messy but in your case it wont matter as the locks stuffed anyway.    

He is a member here...from the Gong.  I recently gave him a heap of spare bits and pieces I CBF'ed offloading.  In the load was an ignition and key for an automatic....not sure what year.
I have sent him a PM.
Did have his mobile number but I must have deleted it...sorry.

Thanks have touched base with him, cheers!

My mechanic has just advised that sometimes if the ignition is damaged you might need to replace the module also which can cost $$$.
Anyone had this problem or know what it costs or how hard to source parts?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
×
×
  • Create New...