Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 gtr

Hey guys, need your help with identifying some car parts on my r33 gtr. I am not a mechanic, whatever i have learnt over the years is self taught so it is safe to say that i dont know everything that is on a car. Anyways i was replacing the front right inner cv boot and also fitting new rotors and i came across a hose that i dont know about. First photo is from the outside and second one is from the inside where the drive shaft connects into the hub. Also whats that white silicone stuff on the surface in the second photo?

Secondly i tried taking taking this bolt out shown in the third photo, using a braker bar i am able to spin it but thats all it doing. It doesnt get loose and just spins which requires a lot of force. All help is appreciated.

Thanks all.

IMG_0603.JPG

IMG_0605.JPG

IMG_0669.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469647-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

I am not replacing the joint right now but i will be in about 3 months. Do you think it will come off if i use air tools? Because right now i am just using hand tools. I would prefer to use the original bolts so if you have any suggestions on how to take it off without damaging the nut, that would be awesome but if not then il just have to source another nut. Also when i put everything back, do i need to put anything on that ABS sensor and remove that silicone? 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469647-r33-gtr/#findComment-7818429
Share on other sites

I was replacing the inner cv boot and rotors and realised that the rubber has got some tiny cracks in it due to the age of it. Same issue with the steering rack. I am just getting the car ready for compliance and once its on the road i can slowly start replacing the parts i want. Low on cash at the moment or i would have done it now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469647-r33-gtr/#findComment-7818619
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...