Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all can anyone with experience tell me if 18x10 +30 te37sl will fit straight on to 95' series 1 33gtr vspec. I know I will have to roll rear guards as fronts already done factory I assume, but nothing else major needed to just fit and drive away. Brakes are factory brembo still.

 

TIA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469773-te37-fitment/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thanks for replies! So got the rims, black te37sl 18x9.5 +30 they are....stoked!! Still need a spacer for strut clearance ? And if so looking at the eBay alloy aluminium 10mm universal for all 4 or just for rear? Are they ok quality wise ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469773-te37-fitment/#findComment-7827120
Share on other sites

Can I ask why u bought +30 offsets and then still plan to put spacers on?
If you bought the correct offset then you would have no need for spacers.
With a 10mm spacer you are going to need to get longer bolts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469773-te37-fitment/#findComment-7827178
Share on other sites

The rims are second hand and that's the offset they are, didn't think it would be too much of a drama. So buying spacers with the holes to fit over studs then the additional bolts attached to spacer would be the better option?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469773-te37-fitment/#findComment-7827183
Share on other sites

So after speaking to a knowledged skyline owner himself he said go 25mm spacer minimum if you want to fill the guards out nicely and should have no troubles with rim or tyre rubbing on strut on inside or tyres rubbing on guard. Sounds like the go, opinions? As I particularly wanted these rims and they came at a very reasonable price I just have to live with the spacer idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469773-te37-fitment/#findComment-7827204
Share on other sites

Its pretty easy to remove the old studs yourself but the rears are a bit annoying, you have to take apart the handbrake drum assembly to have room to remove the studs.

If your going to run 10mm spacers id say get the GKtech extended studs and 10mm hubcentric slip on spacers.

If your going to run bolt on spacers you wont need extended studs.

If i were you i would sell the wheels and just get proper fitting ones, they will look more aggressive, have better grip and are safer. Bolt on spacers are dodgy as imo, i wouldn't trust them. Hubcentric slip on is better but no spacers are preferable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469773-te37-fitment/#findComment-7827234
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...