Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all im having an issue with my r33 gtst rb25det it has a misfire/backfire when i change gear its doing my head in an im not sure where to go from here if anyone has any suggestions that would be epic.

 

1993 R33 gtst

*new plugs

*splitfire coil packs

*walbro 450

*fmic

*gfb bov

*hks mush pod

*3" exhaust unsure what it is tbh

 

Thanks in advance everyone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469846-misfire-or-backfire-on-gear-change/
Share on other sites

i had the same thing. im not sure which fixed it but i had my AFMs resoldered and had the car retuned.

try resoldering the AFM solder joints (how to on here somewhere) cos its cheap and easy to do. and it sounds like a rich issue your having anyway.

There you go. Return BOV to stock or plumb yours in if it is possible. MAF is measuring air coming in and adjusting fuel to suit but some air is escaping via BOV instead of beng recirculated as per the stock set up - hence running rich.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kittens in first to claim dominance of the residence, then puppies later From past experience, the other way around can be problematic to say the least  Those weird "Dobby looking"  little kittens are not cheap....LOL
    • At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...