Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Spacers

Consensus on running a small 3mm slip on hub centric spacer to gain some clearance to the shock tower to allow a little more camber? 

Stock S13 wheel nuts, haven't measured thread engagement just yet. 

4 stud car so finding wheels is painful. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469977-spacers/
Share on other sites

I looked at using those, smallest was 10mm though so I thought I'd end up with guard clearance issues, plus then the front track will be wider than the rear, by default the rear is wider, and in my case wider again as it has the S14 rear subframe. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469977-spacers/#findComment-7823488
Share on other sites

Checked threads, not comfortable running spacer on those. 

Given how hard it is to find a square set of 4 stud 17x9, any issue with running 10mm bolt on spacers only at the front? Would mean front track was wider than rear, which is not standard. 

Or could  just run them all round, keep track even and make car wider. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469977-spacers/#findComment-7824770
Share on other sites

Or another idea. 

Could use hub centric 15mm or 20mm 4 stud bolt on spacer and then be able run the rear 17x9 rim i have from the other set of the same rims on the front so I can get 255 on it all round). 

Seems there's plenty of guys on there using proper hub centric bolt on spacers, it;s non hub centric and slip on people don;t like. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469977-spacers/#findComment-7824779
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I would say no, if the car has even track width side to side there should be no impact on HICAS, maybe the rack works a touch harder as the wheel has been moved further away from the axis of pivot.

Get your rear alignment checked and inspect the HICAS tie rod ends for wear and play of you want to keep it in, otherwise, Lock it out but do it properly where you press the tie rod ends out. 

 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469977-spacers/#findComment-7830628
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...