Jump to content
SAU Community

Ecu nistune link vipec

lcxu105

By lcxu105,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

lcxu105 Proficient

lcxu105

Posted
Posted
Ecu nistune link vipec

It's probably be spoken about before. 

I'm no wiz when it comes to ecu's .

How much difference is there between say a nistune and a link plug in ecu. Is the extra coin really worth it.  Is there power to be made more so with the link plug in over the nistune. 

Engine is built rb30/25 neo gtx3582r on 22 - 24 psi 1000cc injectors on pump fuel.

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470277-ecu-nistune-link-vipec/
Share on other sites
baron_von_bootsector Enthusiast

baron_von_bootsector

Posted
Posted

Best bet is to go over your requirements / wants with whoever you are looking to get it tuned by, this will identify what features you need and that dictates what ECU's would suit the build. As Dose highlights above - the big advantages of a higher end ECU is in things like additional sensor inputs and outputs, traction control, antilag, effective knock sensor capability etc but you might not need or want any of those.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Vipec was the name used by Link for the Australian market - now it is used for their snowmobile and watersport applications so if you are choosing between Link and Nistune...as far as safety is concerned I believe the Nistuned ecu retains the safety features of the stock ecu although no doubt you could put an unsafe tune on it.

The Link can have a number of protections built in (e.g.max revs in gears, minimum oil pressure) but it will not of itself make more power than the Nistune ...but it allows for more optional features. It is only worth the extra if you want or plan to use these features.

33GTRV Mentor

33GTRV

Posted
Posted

This is for the torana i take it. Id use the vi-pec. Better timing control with the use of an aftermarket  crank cam trigger setup and better resolution in timing and injection maps. Generally speaking, just a much more capable and flexible setup over the nistune for your application. 

  • 2 weeks later...
TXSquirrel Community Regular

TXSquirrel

Posted
Posted

I have talked to authorized tuners of both Link and Nistune.  If you are looking for fail safe functions, go with Link.  

Link can drop RPM, cut boost, and keep a constant and safe A/F ratio when there is a component failure.  Given you have all the extra sensors installed of course, like fuel/oil pressure and wideband controller, plus using Link to drive your boost solenoid.

  • 2 weeks later...
lcxu105 Proficient

lcxu105

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok. So I'm about to start installing the vi-pec and expansion cable to run inlet air temp sensor 4 bar map sensor and a wide bane 02 sensor with CAN LAMBDA. All parts are from link g4 so same as vi-pec. But have no dam idea how to wire it all up. I know the vi-pec is a plugin ecu so thats easy.  I know where to plug in the expansion cable but have no idea what wire goes to what in reference to the new sensors.

Has anyone got a diagram or can tell me what goes where please. 

Thank you in advance. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...