Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oh golly, what a bun fight.........

My take on it is this. Multi throttle bodies will give you two things, better transient throttle response, and better cleaner idle with large overlap cams. None of this is going to show up on a dyno at wide open throttle(s). On the road it might feel quite different, and that is where the advantage lies, not on the dyno, or quarter mile times.

For sheer balls to the wall top end horsepower, a single throttle body can be made as large as you want to make it. Throttle response and drivability will not improve. Drag cars have single throttle bodies, and the road racers keep the individual throttle bodies. What do YOU want to use YOUR car for ?

As far as inlet manifolds go, what else are you going to do to the engine, and what is most important to you ?

Long intake runners are a definite advantage for low end and mid range torque. At stock and moderate boost levels they are NOT restrictive as Sydneykid keeps on telling everyone. Air distribution is excellent. If you are planning absolutely massive boost and radical high Rpm power, something else might work better.

The GTR manifold was designed for less restriction, but it also is going to have less low and mid range torque because of much poorer cylinder filling off boost. That DETT engine relies totally on boost pressure to make it go.

I would bet that with stock boost and stock single turbo, an RB25DET will have reduced low and mid range torque, and it will not have the same top end power as the GTR simply because the stock turbo will run out of flow. Although I have not actually tried this myself.

It probably will work better if you are planning to upgrade everything else along with the intake manifold, the engine will then take on a completely different character.

At stock GTR power levels the factory GTR manifold will have near perfect air distribution. The Nissan engineers made it that way by putting in all those ridges, steps, and curves. But if you start increasing the air velocities greatly above what it was designed for, it will all start to go wrong, and the rear cylinder runs lean.

That is where all this nonsense started, guys start running 20+ psi and complain the stock manifold is rubbish. Well, maybe, but it was never designed for that.

Decide what you want it to do, and design it to do that job.

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That is where all this nonsense started, guys start running 20+ psi and complain the stock manifold is rubbish. Well, maybe, but it was never designed for that.

Excellent post Warpspeed, I would only like to add one little bit to the above para....

The Gibson GTR's ran the standard plenum and throttle bodies and the only engine dyno sheet I have seen showed 640 bhp at 1.9 bar (28 psi). So if 13 years ago they could get it to work perfectly, run 1,000 kms at race pace, up and down MtPanorama, surely it is not stretching the imagination for us to do the same now. Just the ECU improvement alone is light years ahead. :burnout:

WARPSPEED- Good explanation mate, The reason i have got the GTR plenum sitting in my shed over the Greddy on or custon one of stock runners is because i bought a big package when my engine blew, consisted of afew gtr parts including crank, rods, plenum, injectors and fuel pump n rail, also came with lots of other goodies, for me to get all these goodies at a good price i had to buy the lot. Everything is usable on my rb25 and therefor i have a gtr plenum that i am going to adapt to my head and see how she goes, thats why this thread was started. I understand that for the low-mid range torque its not going to be benificial and maybe not significant gains in top end power i havent a clue but since i got it i am going to use it seem logical? I got head port work, 256 cams therefor retaining vvt, to try n help with the breathing alittle. I think its better to put it on now whilst i have the engine out and in pieces rather than trying to swap manifolds over months down the track when the engine is in the car and driving.

Sweetr33, sounds like you have a plan.

Fitting the GTR plenum just by itself will probably make the engine feel a bit soft down low, and might be a disappointment. But if it is just the very first step in a long range plan that you have worked out, it is probably a pretty smart move.

WARPSPEED- Good explanation mate, The reason i have got the GTR plenum sitting in my shed over the Greddy on or custon one of stock runners is because i bought a big package when my engine blew, consisted of afew gtr parts including crank, rods, plenum, injectors and fuel pump n rail, also came with lots of other goodies, for me to get all these goodies at a good price i had to buy the lot. Everything is usable on my rb25 and therefor i have a gtr plenum that i am going to adapt to my head and see how she goes, thats why this thread was started. I understand that for the low-mid range torque its not going to be benificial and maybe not significant gains in top end power i havent a clue but since i got it i am going to use it seem logical? I got head port work, 256 cams therefor retaining vvt, to try n help with the breathing alittle. I think its better to put it on now whilst i have the engine out and in pieces rather than trying to swap manifolds over months down the track when the engine is in the car and driving.

Are you still running the stock ECU ?

Seen how many Jap circuit race cars have single throttle bodys now.

AS for the oz race cars that was a very long time ago and to group A rules so even if they wanted to change them they can't under group A.

Ask John munro about ND4SPD and you will see its a genuine streeter but we are going to change the car around for a few months to show its tru performance as it has run 142mph down the 1/4 on basic dunlop road tyres wait till we set up the chassis and run semi drag rubber + good fuel and race tune.

Ok Updating, Me and dad went and had a closer look at the gtr manifold. Seems the gtr runners where they meet the head are round where the gtst inlet port shape is sort of like a butterfly shape, Our theory is to chop the standard gtst inlet manifold about 2 inches from the flange to the head, retaining the water cooler feature, which would also make the part where wer need to adapt the gtr plenum also round following so far?

There was going to be a drama fitting the injectors into the gtr plenum, meaning we had to drill holes into the runners and make alloy sleeves to fit the injectors and get the right angle of fire etc, but now with retaining the standard inlet flange we already have hoels for injectors and also a good spray angle with the aid of the inlet water cooling.

Another drama we came across with the initial thought of just making an adapter plate was that the gtst inlet ports are wider than the gtr plenum holes so we would have to somehow taper down the the correct size. Was going to be a hassle so we have decided this is the best way. Let me know what u guys think and know about our idea

This has been done before by many people. The way they do it is as you suggest. Cut all the GTST runners off straight, just before the injectors, and either weld on the GTR plenum direct, or better still, weld on a flat flange plate, and then bolt on the GTR plenum.

There will be quite a bit of grinding and matching because the runners DO NOT LINE UP perfectly. GTST runners are almost evenly spaced, the GTR plenum has the runners spaced in three pairs to suit the three twin throttle bodies. Every runner needs to be moved sideways a small amount. This is not obvious just by quickly looking, but if you look very carefully you will see what I mean.

You will come across the problem that cylinders 3&4 dip down on the RB25 lower runners to make them equal length. This to me seems like the biggest problem.

***Does anyone have an RB20 lower runner section that they can look at for me!!!****

I'm going to have a red face I can tell but... what is that? Some sort of wild mods to the 5th and 6th cylinder?

Nah, #5 and #6 are different to clear the master cylinders, brake and clutch. As you can see they are the same close to the cylinder head, so you can cut and weld on a flange. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
×
×
  • Create New...