Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Replace 460LPH Walbro with?

RB26, maxed out the 460LPH Walbro at around 500rwhp on e85. They are rated to about 600hp (assuming flywheel so seems about right). 

Want something in tank and looked at this: http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-485lph-fuel-pump-high-pressure-tia485-2-f90000274-universal-e85-ethanol-ti-automotive.html

Given the car has -9s and is almost done as far as turbos go, I only need enough to stop it leaning out and run a touch more boost. 

Does that pump really support another 150hp? Are there better in tank options available? 

Given I already have it in there, wiring would be direct swap over it looks like. 

Yes I have the pump direct fed from battery (with relay triggered by standard fuel pump wiring).  

Thanks all :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470529-replace-460lph-walbro-with/
Share on other sites

Looking at other threads on here, people saying these can support 450rwkw? 

Has been suggested that I remove this pressure valve and bump base fuel pressure to 3.5. Any issues with that? 

Would be great to not have to get into the tank again though..

20151205_152506.jpg

Good to know. Seems others are making up to 450rwkw with these pumps and I found reference on here to that inline valve causing tuning issues for someone else before. 

Will start by removing that, might be a cheap fix yet :)

Haven't removed to inspect yet. 

Did the same setup in the Silvia without issue. 

Have run direct feed to battery via relay, relay is trigger by standard fuel pump relay trigger. All with suitable gauge wiring. 

I have a 34 with this pump.

You are running into issues on E85 like every other 34 owner I presume. Now, everyone I've seen this issue with has a GTT, but I wouldnt be super suprised if its the same thing at play here.

The fuel filter is your restriction. It always seems to happen at about 350-375kw on E85.

Also, there's two types of the Walbro 460. One has a 70psi internal relief valve, the newer one has 120psi internal relief valve. This means that at certain amounts of boost the earlier one is going to pump back into the tank as opposed to into the rail. When you consider 45psi is base pressure, 70psi gives you 25psi of boost before you start to run into issues.

Change the filter and the pump (if need be, do filter first) and problem will be magically solved.

You can try running without the filter on the dyno to confirm.

genuine Nissan for sure, $45 from Nissan IIRC and I'd assume cheaper from Justjap, Kudos etc...

2 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Fuel filter huh... 

It's new, but just a generic one. It has been about 1000ks on e85 now, I wonder if it's full of gunk?

Best option for replacement? 

 

IMG_4641.JPG

Edited by mr_rbman
pic

I think the solution might be to put 2 filters in parallel.  the problem not necessarily being that the single filter is a bit blocked/dirty, just that the single filter is inherently a restriction when trying to shove that much E85 through it!

If you can make it work with 2x filters in parallel, then it might be worth considering a less bodgy solution which is one of those massive fuel filters that use screw on cartridges like an oil filter.

  • Like 1

Run a second braided fuel line. In theory a single 8mm fuel line will support around 600hp or slightly above that with 98, throw in E85 and your engines demanding 30% more fuel. I run twin Walbro 255 with dual feed to the factory RB26 rail and that should in theory be good for almost 1000hp. (Rail and 8mm return line being the next restrictions).

In saying all that though, I have seen Walbro 460s run over 400kw so a change of filter is your cheapest best option currently.

I'm pretty sure other people are making more power without any of that stuff around. 

I'll remove the damper in the tank, put a fresh filter on (as it's done 1000k's on e85 now so worth changing for safety I hear) and see where that gets us. 

 

 

If you are replacing the filter don't put an OEM one back in, especially with E85. I had an issue with my GTR a couple of weeks ago, the solution was a high flow speedflow filter, fixed my issues 100%.

Damper was removed a while ago from memory. 

Mines a 40 micron -6 fitting speedflow filter, was $100 according to my invoice, my mechanic just got it for me.

I was having a few teething issues when running E85, slight hesitation at around 3800-4000 RPM under high boost, and the occasional knock light coming on. Wasn't happy with it so i took it to a different shop, he took one look at my filter and wen't "that thar is your problem". Changed the filter over and under load i gained 5psi rail pressure, car feels heaps different. Like i was actually shocked how much smoother it was...

Hmm OK, I'm in two minds about the filter as plenty of others seem to make bigger power with the standard filter in place. 

Would have been good to know if just a new standard filter would have solved your issue. 

I don't think it's the case of the filter being clogged so much, as much as what GTSBoy said, the actual filter itself is restrictive and it can't flow that much fuel in it.


I was also using a ryco filter. I now use an Earls filter, but as I've backed down my power goal I now run two filters because the Earls filter I have is 30 micron and apparently 20 is what you want (the ryco one is 20 I read somewhere).

This is likely why the best option is to run them in parallel when chasing that much power. Earls have a 10 micron filter for their big filter, but I found any time I swapped between E85 and 98, in either direction, the filter would near-instantly get clogged with a 10.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...