Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally got myself a 1996 R33 GTST after owning a few n/a's.

 

Car is stock except for front mount intercooler and boost tee(currently wound all the way down).

3" exhaust from turbo back, cat has been gutted.

 

But im having issues with boost. I only want to run 7-10 psi max but for some reason the boost will just continue to climb untill over 15psi then starts to cut out. I have tried using the stock boost controller but makes no difference.

 

Car had a boost leak which i thought was the problem but i did a boost leak test and fixed the leak, problem still exists.

 

I decided to check out the wastegate actuator but seems to open perfectly fine(not hitting dump).

 

On inspection of the turbo i noticed that there was no compressor outlet where a hose should run from it, to the boost controller, then into the wastegate actuator shouldnt it? Instead my car has a T piece from a hose that goes from the manifold to the charcoal canister?

 

Dont know much about turbo cars as this is my first and really dont understand why its overboosting so much?

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470626-help-cars-overboosting/
Share on other sites

All the way down is full boost. Turn it anti clockwise a couple of turns and check boost again.


It is turned all the way anti clockwise and back off ever so sightly. But i have the same issue even if i connect it to the stock boost controller aswell.
And failing that.....the boost signal must be from the compressor housing, or some point on the turbo-intercooler-plenum pipework.  Anywhere else is stupidly wrong.


There is nowhere on my turbos compressor housing to connect the hose to like there should be, and nothing on the intercooler piping either.

Could the issue be that the hose goes from manifold to boost tee then wastegate?

There should be a nipple on the intercooler pipe that goes to the throttle body. That should be the boost source. Doesn't sound like yours is like this.

Remove the boost controller and run the line direct from your boost source to wastegate actuator and see if you get low boost.

There should be a nipple on the intercooler pipe that goes to the throttle body. That should be the boost source. Doesn't sound like yours is like this.

Remove the boost controller and run the line direct from your boost source to wastegate actuator and see if you get low boost.


Cant find any hoses on the intercooler piping that run to throttle body, there is one hose that runs from throttle body to charcoal canister?

Look.  The actuator doesn't matter a shit.  They're both 5 psi items.  What matters is that your boost source is coming from somewhere wrong.  The fact that there is no nipple to connect the boost control to on the intercooler pipework IS THE PROBLEM.  Trace the connection back to where it comes from.  if you cannot see/prove that it is 100% from upstream the throttle, with no solenoid valves or check valves or anything else in the way, then fix it.  This will mean PUTTING A NIPPLE ONTO THE PIPEWORK.  Which would be 100% what the doofus who installed it all should have done, and apparently didn't.

  • Like 1
Look.  The actuator doesn't matter a shit.  They're both 5 psi items.  What matters is that your boost source is coming from somewhere wrong.  The fact that there is no nipple to connect the boost control to on the intercooler pipework IS THE PROBLEM.  Trace the connection back to where it comes from.  if you cannot see/prove that it is 100% from upstream the throttle, with no solenoid valves or check valves or anything else in the way, then fix it.  This will mean PUTTING A NIPPLE ONTO THE PIPEWORK.  Which would be 100% what the doofus who installed it all should have done, and apparently didn't.


Okay thanks heaps mate I will tap a fitting into the pipework and run it straight to the actuator for now, ill be sure to let you know how it goes.

Thanks again for the help, really appreciate it :)

So turns out that not only was the boost signal coming from manifold the problem but also both my factory boost solenoid and boost tee are faulty.

I ran the hose straight from the intercooler to wastegate and get 5psi with no issues, i then wanted more boost so i connected the hose from intercooler to stock boost solenoid(the top nipple) and a hose from wastegate to the solenoid(bottom nipple) and thr car ran like shit and then died on me about 200m down the road.(and yes the solenoid was plugged in)

So now im running a 10psi wastegate from an r32 which seemed to be working perfectly the first time i drove it, went to drive it again later that night and as i was slowing down for lights it died on me and started running like shit (im assuming it R&R).

So im wondering if i keep the 10psi actuator on is the car gonna keep going into r&r until i get an aftermarket ecu + tune?

And is my boost solenoid had it or am i plumbing it up wrong?

R&R won't cause the car to stall off boost.  You have left a big leak somewhere in your pipework, or some similar mistake.  A 10 psi actuator will not cause you any trouble, it will just cause the full load mixtures to be very rich, and the car to be slower than it should at that boost (due to the other half of R&R).

2 hours ago, Benjamin_John93 said:

And is my boost solenoid had it or am i plumbing it up wrong?

You are plumbing it wrong. You need a plain T (or maybe your boost T is OK after all).

Boost signal goes from intercooler pipe to T. Another line goes from T to actuator. Third line goes from T to solenoid. The other solenoid pipe goes to bov return pipe (or leave it open to atmosphere until you can sort out a nipple). From stock there is a restrictor somewhere (maybe on the boost signal pipe?) but even without that you should have better boost control.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 😆 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
×
×
  • Create New...