Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was having a look online and read a few places that a rb30de engine as long as it's series 2 is fine to use for 30/25 turbo build so long as you change the cams and pistons as I was going to anyway. Is this true because if it is my mates got a spare rb30de s2 with water and oil lines already that I can have so would save a bunch of money on doing so.
 
Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470787-rb30de-for-3025-build/
Share on other sites

43 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

You can use stock pistons if you are poor. I think you'll find the cams are in the head.

Will probably upgrade pistons just because it'll all be apart. And yeah, was a copy and paste from vl forums. :P

53 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

You don't need water and oil lines if you are just going RB30DE, the water and oil lines are just for the turbo.

Going to be turbo. Only just got into the planning phase so still doing a fair bit of research and planning out the go.

Once I've mapped everything out as far as all parts used for certain components I'll do a write up and can get critiqued on the optimal way to progress towards my goal.

 

End goal is MAX 500RWKW, tuned to say around 350ish - Want it for Race Days, Street driving/weekending occasional weekly use.

Edited by Bilga

Goal Output: 350RWKW, Maximum reliability.

ENGINE
    Top End
                - RB25 Head
                - RB25 Camshafts

    Bottom End
                - RB30 Block
                - RB30 Crankshaft
                - RB30 Pistons
                - RB30 Rods

    Turbo
                - Garrett 3076 Top Mounted Turbo

    Other
                - Stock Water Pump
                - Stock Oil Pump

    Fuel
                - 1000cc Injectors
                - Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
                - HKS Fuel Rail
                - Billet Fuel Filter
                - SARD Fpr
                - Speedflow Fittings

GEARBOX
                - Stock RB25 Gearbox
                - Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch
                - Nismo Shifter

DIFFERENTIAL
                - Nismo 1.5 Way
                - 4.11:1

COMPUTER
                Not sure, Haltec, Powerfc, Vipec

 

Go to town on critiquing. Would love to get the optimal parts for my goal, within a good price as cheap as necessary but do want it reliable.

8 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Right your thread says RB30DE so was confused. No way 1000cc injectors and a 3076 will ever make 500kw but will do 350kw no worries

Yeah, I changed to just aiming for 350kw. More reasonable for my budget and my first build. The only thing I think I might change from that above list is just getting some upgraded cams, from what I've read and seen others do they've achieved my numbers with a pretty similar setup. Do you think that the listed above build will be pretty reasonably reliable at about 350kw?

I've just about completed my 2530 depending on power goals is not a cheap build. I hate to add the final figure but all I can recommend to it once do it right. Remember poor man pays twice
List of mods include
Series 2 rb30de block
Ported rb25 head
Tomei valve springs and retainers
Camtech 272 cams
Garrett gt42
Npc twin plate clutch
Bosch 2200 injectors
Microtech lt16c with flex tune
List goes on


If you buy a neo head and intake you'll save money on the reg and fuel rail plus all the other benefits like solid lifters.

My fuel system is maxed with 1000's and walbro 416, change the 044 pump for a bigger.

49 minutes ago, AngryRB said:

If you buy a neo head and intake you'll save money on the reg and fuel rail plus all the other benefits like solid lifters.

My fuel system is maxed with 1000's and walbro 416, change the 044 pump for a bigger.

Going to use the head and any other useful salvageable parts from the engine from the car I buy 33 gts-t.

 

19 hours ago, gtst_94 said:

I've just about completed my 2530 depending on power goals is not a cheap build. I hate to add the final figure but all I can recommend to it once do it right. Remember poor man pays twice
List of mods include
Series 2 rb30de block
Ported rb25 head
Tomei valve springs and retainers
Camtech 272 cams
Garrett gt42
Npc twin plate clutch
Bosch 2200 injectors
Microtech lt16c with flex tune
List goes on

 

I think i am going to go with the option of doing it right first, it's going to be in the build phase for a long time since I can't drive it anyway for another year so there is no rush. So It's going to be well worth it when it is done.

Edited by Bilga

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...