Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was having a look online and read a few places that a rb30de engine as long as it's series 2 is fine to use for 30/25 turbo build so long as you change the cams and pistons as I was going to anyway. Is this true because if it is my mates got a spare rb30de s2 with water and oil lines already that I can have so would save a bunch of money on doing so.
 
Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470787-rb30de-for-3025-build/
Share on other sites

43 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

You can use stock pistons if you are poor. I think you'll find the cams are in the head.

Will probably upgrade pistons just because it'll all be apart. And yeah, was a copy and paste from vl forums. :P

53 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

You don't need water and oil lines if you are just going RB30DE, the water and oil lines are just for the turbo.

Going to be turbo. Only just got into the planning phase so still doing a fair bit of research and planning out the go.

Once I've mapped everything out as far as all parts used for certain components I'll do a write up and can get critiqued on the optimal way to progress towards my goal.

 

End goal is MAX 500RWKW, tuned to say around 350ish - Want it for Race Days, Street driving/weekending occasional weekly use.

Edited by Bilga

Goal Output: 350RWKW, Maximum reliability.

ENGINE
    Top End
                - RB25 Head
                - RB25 Camshafts

    Bottom End
                - RB30 Block
                - RB30 Crankshaft
                - RB30 Pistons
                - RB30 Rods

    Turbo
                - Garrett 3076 Top Mounted Turbo

    Other
                - Stock Water Pump
                - Stock Oil Pump

    Fuel
                - 1000cc Injectors
                - Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
                - HKS Fuel Rail
                - Billet Fuel Filter
                - SARD Fpr
                - Speedflow Fittings

GEARBOX
                - Stock RB25 Gearbox
                - Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch
                - Nismo Shifter

DIFFERENTIAL
                - Nismo 1.5 Way
                - 4.11:1

COMPUTER
                Not sure, Haltec, Powerfc, Vipec

 

Go to town on critiquing. Would love to get the optimal parts for my goal, within a good price as cheap as necessary but do want it reliable.

8 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Right your thread says RB30DE so was confused. No way 1000cc injectors and a 3076 will ever make 500kw but will do 350kw no worries

Yeah, I changed to just aiming for 350kw. More reasonable for my budget and my first build. The only thing I think I might change from that above list is just getting some upgraded cams, from what I've read and seen others do they've achieved my numbers with a pretty similar setup. Do you think that the listed above build will be pretty reasonably reliable at about 350kw?

I've just about completed my 2530 depending on power goals is not a cheap build. I hate to add the final figure but all I can recommend to it once do it right. Remember poor man pays twice
List of mods include
Series 2 rb30de block
Ported rb25 head
Tomei valve springs and retainers
Camtech 272 cams
Garrett gt42
Npc twin plate clutch
Bosch 2200 injectors
Microtech lt16c with flex tune
List goes on


If you buy a neo head and intake you'll save money on the reg and fuel rail plus all the other benefits like solid lifters.

My fuel system is maxed with 1000's and walbro 416, change the 044 pump for a bigger.

49 minutes ago, AngryRB said:

If you buy a neo head and intake you'll save money on the reg and fuel rail plus all the other benefits like solid lifters.

My fuel system is maxed with 1000's and walbro 416, change the 044 pump for a bigger.

Going to use the head and any other useful salvageable parts from the engine from the car I buy 33 gts-t.

 

19 hours ago, gtst_94 said:

I've just about completed my 2530 depending on power goals is not a cheap build. I hate to add the final figure but all I can recommend to it once do it right. Remember poor man pays twice
List of mods include
Series 2 rb30de block
Ported rb25 head
Tomei valve springs and retainers
Camtech 272 cams
Garrett gt42
Npc twin plate clutch
Bosch 2200 injectors
Microtech lt16c with flex tune
List goes on

 

I think i am going to go with the option of doing it right first, it's going to be in the build phase for a long time since I can't drive it anyway for another year so there is no rush. So It's going to be well worth it when it is done.

Edited by Bilga

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...