Idling then dies

[Skurt]

Idling then dies

IDLING ISSUES!!
Hey guys, I have a 1994 r33 gts25t auto (rb25det). On cold start I have to use the throttle to get it going and use the throttle to warm it up. When it's warm 5 mins later I release the throttle for it to idle and it slowly dies. Start it back up with no throttle and she runs mint for 30 seconds then it dies again. Within that 30 seconds I can touch the throttle and it will idle until 30 seconds is up then again....it dies. Try to blip the throttle after that 30 seconds and it dies again. I have...

Resoldered the afm and fitted another working afm.
Replaced aac valve.
Set tps to .45V.
Fitted another relay for a constant 12V to the fuel pump.
Opened up cold start valve and it was clean as.
Vacuum tested the intake and no leaks occurred.

Removed and cleaned throttle body right up.
Checked ecu for codes, nothing appeared.
Replaced temp sensor.
BCPR6ES gapped to .8.
Cleaned cam angle sensor.
Checked ecu for any burn or corroded connections inside.

 

Anyone please help me if they have had this issue, I've never heard of it happening.

[niZmO_Man]

What blow-off valve do you have? I vaguely remembering that atmo-venting ones might cause idle/stalling issues.

[Skurt]

Factory BOV. 

Also, the vehicle had a pod filter when I bought it so I put a factory air box back in with a new filter.

Only aftermarket thing on the engine are the spitfire coilpacks.

 

Bloody thing has me pulling my hair out.

Edited July 26, 2017 by Skurt

[drunken0elf]

I have ight idling issues on my r32 but i'm 100% sure its the atmo BOV. Since you got stock bov, it's obviously not the cause so...   Maybe a vacum line leak or something like that?

[Skurt]

I pressurized the inlet system for any vacuum leaks and there aren't any, visually looked at all the lines also.

 

While driving I have to double foot it so it won't die at lower speeds and stopping. (Just the same idling issue) I feel like something is drawing the current iswell because it won't start after a couple days of not starting. It slow cranks when that happens but then some times it's starts up ? it is charging, I checked with a multi meter. Maybe need to do another test of some sort? 

[Skurt]

Also tried another perfectly fine battery. It started fine but wouldn't idle like normal.

[GH05T]

i would be blaming the AFM plug connection. 

do a search on it and the symptoms will probably come up aswell as the solder fix.

[r33cruiser]

This might sound stupid, but have you checked the CAS?

Mine did the same thing. Swapped out the CAS, now all is good.

[Skurt]

Looking at the plug on the afm it looks fine and so does the wiring.

 

Yeah I've replaced the CAS and nothing different.

Edited July 28, 2017 by Skurt

[GH05T]

you wont be able to visually inspect the afm issue, you have to cut it open and resolder the join

[Skurt]

I have resoldered the internals of the afm

[KiwiRS4T]

Pressure test the fuel system. FPRs rarely fail but good to check. have you replaced the fuel filter in the engine bay? Long shot if you can swap out the ecu with someone just to eliminate that as a problem.

[Skurt]

Sweet as, and yes I have replaced the fuel filter. Haven't replaced the ecu to eliminate that problem yet. Trying to find one.

[Skurt]

It's weird how it is exactly 30 seconds then it plays up and dies. Could any relays get hot and cut out? Not to mention it dies straight away when dead cold.

[GT-R David]

Is you stock exhaust temperstur sensor still in place?

Is the temp warning light on?

When the two cables are cut and stuck together the car will shut of after a specified time.

 

 

 

 

[drunken0elf]

Hope you find your problem.

and when you do share it with us all. I'm really curious to know what's causing all the trouble.