Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this question has probably been asked before, but im not too sure on how up to date the information might be, so i thought i would ask you guys as i have been dicked around so much i just want my car back :D

My 25 blew thanks to some dodgy actuator welding provided by a workshop which will remain nameless... Ive been told alot of things, but im relatively new to this whole car scene so i dont know what to believe...

What is the best option to go for in this situation? rebuild? drop in another 25? 26? conversion? and most importantly, who can i go and see that knows what they are talking about and can do quality workmanship at a reasonable price?? I just want my baby back on the road its been almost 2 months now :(

If anyone can give me some advice, and some sort of idea on what each option is going to cost, id appreciate it..

Thanks alot guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47145-the-final-word/
Share on other sites

Go and see Ken at Hyperdrive - www.hyperdrivems.com.au. He is also forum member and alot of people go to him from the forums.

UNIT 1, 28 VALE STREET

MALAGA 6090

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

TEL: (08) 9209 3100

[email protected]

Or see Steve at SST

Unit 9/ 138 Radium St, Welshpool 6106 Ph(08) 9350 5444

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47145-the-final-word/#findComment-953400
Share on other sites

sldfhlsajkhfljsdahlhsdalfhsadhfdsa

thx alot for ur input guys, geez we are talkin alot of money...

is there anything else i can do that might be cheaper? im not looking for mass hp or anything i just want my car back on the road. its not going to be a big racing machine.....

yeah im pretty sure the rings are gone....but the engine did seize mid cruise due to no oil. the actuator weld came off so no wastegate = big pressure buildup = turbo seal destruction = where did my oil go? oh its everywhere, look at the pretty fire.......

we did get the engine going again after about 20-30 min, but the infamous knock knock tap tap was audible from inside the car

cheers boosted 26 for ur support....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47145-the-final-word/#findComment-953700
Share on other sites

yeah im pretty sure the rings are gone....but the engine did seize mid cruise due to no oil. the actuator weld came off so no wastegate = big pressure buildup = turbo seal destruction = where did my oil go? oh its everywhere' date=' look at the pretty fire.......QUOTE']

That statement isn't quite logical, with no wastegate actuator you wouldnt get any boost at all, or close to none.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47145-the-final-word/#findComment-954757
Share on other sites

yup can sympathise with you bud - my 25 blew thru noones fault tho ...... wasnt prepared for such an outlay of money .... really didnt expect it ..... got a personal loan then just went the forgies now hopefully i never have to worry about it again. *touches wood*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47145-the-final-word/#findComment-956732
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...