Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking for a cheap R33 GTS-T

all i want is it to be in good condition inside and out... mods aren't a big problem i'm looking to spend about $15,500...can it be done..does anyone know if that can be done

i would like a black manual apart from that stock is fine although any mods would be greatly appriciated...thanks and if anyone knows one for sale for this price in Vic please PM or e-mail me at [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47172-cheap-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

You could find an OK R33 GTS25t for around $15,00 but certainly not a good, clean example under $15,000. You should be prepared to pay a little more than $15,000 for a decent, clean example. Have a look at this decent R33 GTS25t 5 Speed Manual.

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.private_vehicle?vehicle_id=128605&current_rec=66&total_rec=130&sort_type=&price_max=20000&make_id=5&model_id=73&state_id=-1&search_distance=25

Dallas

sock

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47172-cheap-r33-gts-t/#findComment-954008
Share on other sites

yeah it's all about money problems lol i'm onna be buying it for my first car....any opinions on that :) i'd be interested to hear bout that lol anyway i'm just after a good clean car that runs well black and manual....any mods are great but not needed atm...thanks fo the input though...remember if u see one in vic please tell me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47172-cheap-r33-gts-t/#findComment-954040
Share on other sites

Maybe an older car such as a R32 for your first car because you must think of things such as parts and mantinence, and some R33's are comming up to their 100,000 KM service, timing belt etc arn't cheap. Also factor in insurance, insurance for young driver's with a Japanese Imported car, espicially a turbocharged one won't be cheap. Just a few things you should think of before going ahead and purchasing the car. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47172-cheap-r33-gts-t/#findComment-954045
Share on other sites

im in the exact same boat as you my friend. Looking to spend 15 at the most on a good car. I really have my eyes on an r33, but the reality is for a good example of one, u have to spend at least a few grand more, and thats with out factoring in insurance and all that other annoying shit. For 15 you would be best getting something like a r32, 180sx, s13, series 1-5 rx7, 89-90 supra, or maybe even an early model s14. ya never know though, someone might be wanting to offload their r33 cheap somewhere down the road........im still hoping for that to come along, haha. Luck and chance play a big role in the car market in my experience.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47172-cheap-r33-gts-t/#findComment-954385
Share on other sites

Difficult situation your in dude. I was in the same boat when I was 18.... Insurance was expensive and I couldnt afford much... I know you probably dont wanna hear this dude but if i were u, work your arse off for 6-12 months and get some more money in the bank account. if your looking at an r33 turbo manual for 15k you may get one but it will cost u a bit to get the little problems fixed eg(paint touch-ups, timing belts, detailed etc.) If you save a bit more and wait and spend around 18k-20k you will get a clean low kilometer 1995mdl with a set of wheels and maybe a bodykit.... Plus your insurance will come down because you are older... Its only 6-12 month wait and you will get a much better car with no ongoing problems.... Good luck champ!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47172-cheap-r33-gts-t/#findComment-955369
Share on other sites

i've seen a few that look in pretty good condition for about $15, 500-$16, 500 so i mite try n wait for one of them to pop up. how many kms should a 1993-1994 have on it if it's legit...i've read the guide to buying secondhand ones...excellent btw...but i'm not sure how to tell...also i'm not interested in one that has heaps of mods because i can't have it with to much more power Victorian P's :S:S anyway just want it to have good interior and exterior and no mechanical problems or things about to ware out eg timing belts tyres...anyone think it's stupid to give a turbo charged car to a 18 y/o ...benn driving since i was 7 or something ...but really driving since bout 14

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47172-cheap-r33-gts-t/#findComment-955696
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...