Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Oh and from what it looks like, your 34 is fairly stock. A stock 35 will feel like an exotic supercar in comparison.

Lots of people will tell you that a GT-R really needs a bit of extra grunt from stock to feel half decent - The 35 has that from factory, a 34 will need a few basic bits to wake it up. 
 

The RB26 really needs at least N1 turbos and appropriate tune. It's a huge difference IMO.

  • Like 1

I would almost be inclined to say 330-350rwkw minimum, ideally 400, but I think we just keep getting used to whatever power we have.

These are heavy cars with poor off boost torque. 

Either way, stock is not much fun. 

 

600 sounds like an arbitrary number you pulled out of nowhere?

Go for some rides in cars of various power and get a feel.

600rwhp might be too much or not even close to enough.

I get where you're coming from, but you can't really make a call until you experience some of this stuff first hand.

  • 1 month later...

Depends what you want in a car. I'd not go back to an earlier GTR after having a R35 for 5 years, it's a generation ahead and feels it but is falling behind its competition a bit now, instead competing with the latest German sedans rather than supercars in terms of straight line speed.  

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

drove R34 and R35 gtr back to back. i never would drive a R34 again. mine makes 550kw atw, runs 9sec 1/4 and still drives like stock. best handling, best power, best performance. manual DCT shift or auto mode for shitty sydney traffic. do i miss manual? "SOMETIMES" im getting older and i am shifting more towards convenience these days. 

Only reason i would buy a R34 gtr is just to have one as part of the collection. but if i had to choose over both - R35 wins for me every day.

  • 2 months later...

Why not just get a R35! 2017 latest or 2013~16 DBA GTR preferred! Running/maintenance cost for any supercars won't come cheap anyway!

I use Pajero Diesel and my wife use Sorento Diesel daily! The GTR only ride once or twice per month!  

  

Edited by R33DRIVER

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...