Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thankyou so much for taking that photo i really appreciate it, after examining it some more i noticed its cracked at the base of the filler neck on both sides, so are the top tanks replaceable or is it possible to grind a channel into the crack and fill it with a special glue, i mention this cos i remember seeing some glue and powder repair kit and on the video for it they show repairing a huge crack and they filled it with that stuff, you put some powder in and then some glue and it soaks in and then you add more powder and glue again and keep building it up, so has anyone done this or know anything about that?

You cannot repair them mate, if top tanks are available i've never seen one, I plastic weld with a Lister, but never radiators or fuel tanks. All those epoxy based filler glues are snake oil they don't work. If moneys a bit short grab a second hand one plenty of options in the big city There are even cheap all aluminium ones although take a good look at the welds some look a bit work experience.

  • 2 weeks later...

this is where its cracked on the base of the filler neck, so does anyone think using a proper plastic radiator repair glue they sell at auto stores will work on it?
As you can see it has a crack that i can see on each side of the neck but i dont know if thry are 2 seperate cracks on each side or if its one long continuous crack

IMG_4032.jpgIMG_4028.jpg

i thought about getting a secondhand one but was worried that most of them probably have been laying in a backyard and not had the openings blocked up and the core is probably full of spiders and rust and god knows what.
I also thought since the crack is just on the neck that it might be ok to repair

Hey Mick I took the photo for you and explained that the crap they sell to fix them does not work, and wishing it will is for the fairies,  Get a second hand one or ebay alloy and be done with it. Asking the same question over and over will not fix it.

On 5/6/2018 at 8:00 PM, Rusty Nuts said:

You cannot repair them mate, if top tanks are available i've never seen one, I plastic weld with a Leister, but never radiators or fuel tanks. All those epoxy based filler glues are snake oil they don't work. If moneys a bit short grab a second hand one plenty of options in the big city There are even cheap all aluminium ones although take a good look at the welds some look a bit work experience.

 

If you dont know how to flush your coolant system, your friendly local rad shop will flush a second hand one for you for peanuts, I always laugh when someone says " I have a little coolant leak", its the same as saying your girlfriend is a little bit pregnant, both are gonna get bigger

if you actually read you will see that i only reposted the photo to ask what the bolt hole was for.

Then after posting photos of where the crack is and what it looks like i so people could get a better idea of how bad it is i then asked if anyone thought the proper plastic radiator glue would work.
I dont see anything wrong with doing that at all

Then after posting photos of where the crack is and what it looks like i so people could get a better idea of how bad it is i then asked if anyone thought the proper plastic radiator glue would work.
I dont see anything wrong with doing that at all

Mick, there is no such thing as proper plastic radiator glue, radiator plastic tanks are usually ABS and can be originally made from material made by Monsanto, Dow chemicals or a japanese/chinese Manufacturer and are difficult to WELD because of this, they have also been subjected to hundreds of hours of heat and fumes which alters their composition, flexibility etc. Hence why even welding is unreliable, their is NO glue that will fix them, you have all the answers mate, and no answers say use this glue its awesome, because they dont work. Bite the bullet and buy another radiator mate, over and out.

1 hour ago, Mick said:

if you actually read you will see that i only reposted the photo to ask what the bolt hole was for.

I took the photo you requested Mick, in your ORIGINAL post 13 days ago and I did not and i have not referred to your repost. Suggest you reread the thread. I have. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...