Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I am new to this site but not to Motorsports. Just wanted to include the dyno results of a car I have been assisting to build, and your thoughts would be appreciated.

To give some perspective, this car was built over a period of 3 years, and was tuned at the last minute late one night before heading to an event. As such, the tuning is not complete. It could be considered an advanced baseline tune but far from finished. 

We have yet to log data regarding the EGT's in each runner, no data on AFR's and the power graph is very wavey as the EBC was not functioning correctly. Unfortunately also, the x-axis is in km/h instead of RPM which I find difficult to use for extrapolating data on boost threshold etc,,,,anyway a quick mods list:

- 1JZ, stock longblock with exception of slip-in HKS 264 cams

- EFR 9180 TS Borg Warner

- 6 Boost exhaust manifold, 50mm Progate

- I built (360CF) the intake manifold w/75mm throttle body

- 360CF 4" intercooler

- 360CF 2.5" off turbo blending to 3" intercooler tubing

- 3.5" exhaust running catalytic converter and quiet baffled muffler

- Smallish air filter

- Microtech ECU and running E-85 tuned by Blacktrack

We will be doing further dyno testing without the cat and running just a straight exhaust, a larger air filter, new EBC and more datalogging of EGTs etc. you can see the boost fluctuations hurt the power curve, however the overall graph looks really impressive, the power shoots for the sky and just hangs in there. A real shame we can't see the RPM's but it seems to be spooling better than the GT35R's I've seen online and holding for longer up top as well.

640WHP was at (inconsistently) 26psi. With a few changes and refinements I have no doubt we can hit 700, though the stock internals must be close to their limit. Anyway, I have found very little on similar engines such as the RB running a similar setup that I can refer to, so any experience you may have would be appreciated.

IMG_2193.JPG

IMG_3227.JPG

Edited by 360CF
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474166-1jz-9180-dyno-results/
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, PranK said:

Looks great! You're a busy person!

Thank you Prank. I realise this is a Nissan website, but posted hoping to find some comparative data to the RB's with similar setups as my google searches were showing very little. I have since found some great info on this site with cars running similar setups which is very useful ?

  • Like 1
Thank you Prank. I realise this is a Nissan website, but posted hoping to find some comparative data to the RB's with similar setups as my google searches were showing very little. I have since found some great info on this site with cars running similar setups which is very useful [emoji106]
Nissan Schmissan. All are welcome here.
  • 2 weeks later...

Attached is an extrapolated guide you can use with the 9180 comp map. You can see I've married up your existing results and PR by using the VE as a variable, it's actually still very realistic and what I'd expect from a 1J with decent intake and exhaust manifolds.

You can see you'll hit 700 by 30psi, and that should be achievable with the motor in its current configuration. However, the turbo has a lot more in it that your existing results show would require changes to the head and cam combo. IE 800 is accessible but you'd need to turn it well into the 8s.

Hope that helps. 

Screenshot_20180615-174345.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...