Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

long story short i blew my standard gear box, but the way it happened seems odd...

 

first i went for a hub dyno tune in rear wheel drive, so i pull the transfer case shaft out,

when on the dyno the lsd was fighting each other so much so that the car wouldn’t rev smoothly and reading allot less power than it should. i know this because out of the three pulls on the dyno one of them was smooth,

first pull the diff was fighting itself and read 300kw,

second pull the diff worked and read 500kw, third pull 300kw again...

he checked the reading of each hub and the two sides were reading very different power figures??

 

the car always drove fine?? the tuner said the diff is no good, “this normaly happens when a diff is wearing out” one wheel gets more power than the other

 

here are the reasons i don’t believe this too be true.... the diff had new gears and checked recently, the diff guy even said “i tightened it up abit” in other words it should be more “limo” than standard

 

now, is there a way the active lsd works on the dyno?

 

i rang one diff place and he said by you taking out the front shaft your confusing the active lsd pump "it sounds like an active lsd pressure problem, probably caused buy you removing the shaft"

 

the guy that did the diff is pretty good at what he does, i don't think he got it wrong

 

now i'm driving home in rear wheel drive (shaft still out) on low boost and i can feel the reving out pretty slow (it never did this in four wheel drive) so now the diff is fighting itself on the street too (for the first time)

 

i give it a hit in second and the gear box breaks ( mind you the box held 1000hp before that) yet it breaks in rear wheel drive at 65% of that power

 

what you think?

Did you pull the air bleed wire and push the brake pedal 5 times to put the 4wd computer into RWD mode as well as removing the front shaft?

Sounds to me like there was 200kw of power turning into heat somewhere, one rear wheel rotating faster than the other is going to heat up your diff real quick isn’t it?

For me the question is what the 4wd computer was trying to do, when it detects wheel spin it shoves torque to the front (ie locks up centre diff more), hence the question about setting the computer into rwd mode.

I wonder what it does to the A-LSD lock up in this situation, would it go up, or down. As mentioned by R.3.2.G.T.R in normal operation more TPS = more alsd lock up (and more cornering force = more alsd lock up too), but I wonder if it was freaking out and going into a failsafe mode (the centre diff failsafe is 20% lock from memory).

Perhaps you overheated something. Maybe a hub dyno aint so good with A-LSD.

Did you pull the air bleed wire and push the brake pedal 5 times to put the 4wd computer into RWD mode as well as removing the front shaft?

Sounds to me like there was 200kw of power turning into heat somewhere, one rear wheel rotating faster than the other is going to heat up your diff real quick isn’t it?

For me the question is what the 4wd computer was trying to do, when it detects wheel spin it shoves torque to the front (ie locks up centre diff more), hence the question about setting the computer into rwd mode.

I wonder what it does to the A-LSD lock up in this situation, would it go up, or down. As mentioned by R.3.2.G.T.R in normal operation more TPS = more alsd lock up (and more cornering force = more alsd lock up too), but I wonder if it was freaking out and going into a failsafe mode (the centre diff failsafe is 20% lock from memory).

Perhaps you overheated something. Maybe a hub dyno aint so good with A-LSD.



no i didn’t do that

there was no light on the dash

you think that would have caused it

like i said, the car always drove straight under power

so putting it in RWD mode is a must?

(btw i did see the front torque gauge go too max at times)

I’d say most people on this forum with 500kw have replaced the A-LSD with a normal LSD like nismo etc, and possibly broken gearboxes too.

The thing about the A-LSD is that it locks when commanded to by the attesa ecu, not from torque from the engine like a regular lsd. A-LSD operation also relies on hydraulic actuator lines not leaking, or needing to be bled.

Dunno if you ‘caused it’, but the A-LSD not being locked on hub dyno sounds bad IMHO.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Need to see other side of PCB in that area...ie; I don't see any thru-hole mounting, just soldered vias (smd zeners in SOT23 have 3 legs but only 2 are used, as reflected by PCB tracks)
    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
×
×
  • Create New...