Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I got my gtx3076 gen2 v band, I think .83 housing on v-band setup, 6 boost, turbosmart wastegate Installed. 1 bar base spring, it’s a pro-gate lite 50mm on a rb25neo, unopened  

 

on mapping at base pressure it creeps to 1.35 bar. Is this a known trait of them ? 

Had some boost control issues too so need to narrow it down to either the hks controller which is difficult to set, or possibly check that a grub screw has not fell out of one of the ports to block off unused 1/16th npt ports, 

but if I get that sorted I aim to run 1.4 bar through the controller, is that likely to creep too or would that stabilise a bit in that I’m wanting to use that pressure rather than dump it?

i will get some details as I actually get time to go play with the car, left it at that on Friday and actually tuned the creep as a minimum but I want to have a regulated 1.4

Edited by Eager
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474334-gtx3076-gen2-boost-creep/
Share on other sites

Got any pics of your gate + piping setup?  Gate takeoff angle and plumbing is a critical aspect to achieving proper control.

Graph showing how boost ramps and what control through the range without BC active would be useful.

Have you spoken with either the fabricator, or your turbo equipment supplier?

I have had a 6boost and 45mm and 50mm gate in the past, with a 3076, 7670 etc.

Never had creep, so not entirely sure what is going on there, but that setup should be able to hold a nice low boost if you want it to, it is certainly not 'normal'

What kind of ECU do you have? You can probably get better boost control with the ecu controlling a Mac valve.

NB wastegate comes off turbo housing

See below - Link + Mac Valve + Synapse 50mm W/G

 

2013.11.21 Boost curve 001.jpg

Quick pic I have of the exhaust side built up,

im thinking there should be a better angle to the wastegate joined on with a length of pipe? I aim to run 1.4 bar through the hks evc and hoping that may stabalis things, and bring the boost in harder 

150D46B2-7FA1-405D-BD00-E4952CC49BBF.jpeg.3861949394c6c47dde6ade55e1121505.jpeg

 

AD651B7C-5235-4347-A074-A7A0825BA34B.thumb.jpeg.d596fb2d01afbc8c96ed5811b8af2729.jpeg

 

 

currently just on the wastegate as we couldn sort the boost controller but I will sort that and it’s a hks evc 6 controller, on a power fc

Open to all advise lads, thanks

 

22 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

I have had a 6boost and 45mm and 50mm gate in the past, with a 3076, 7670 etc.

Never had creep, so not entirely sure what is going on there, but that setup should be able to hold a nice low boost if you want it to, it is certainly not 'normal'

Greg for interest/comparison, do you have pics of your gate setup?  This may help with conversation here.

A lot of effort went into my 6boost gate takeoff angle but we found measured/logged boost pressure around 6 pounds higher than the rated (and bench tested) weight of the gate spring (50mm Pro Gate).  Boost was steady/consistent, just higher than we expected.  Solution was to run a lighter spring than what the actual target is.  Pragmatic but effective; and lots cheaper than more fabrication work.

From my for sale thread:

I had the default spring in the 50mm gate, but mine was a progate as opposed to a progate lite, so it was holding about ~9-10psi on gate pressure with a 14psi spring in the thing, on a 2.8L Neo at the time.

I was going to one day up the spring pressure to compensate but 18psi was 400kw at the time so I honestly never really needed to go more, but control at over 18psi was starting to get really wonky with a 9-10psi base spring pressure.

I wasn't really happy with the angle either. Its a T4 TS manifold with an undivided gate. The previous 45mm gate was on the turbine housing done by Scotty here. I was able to run as little as 4psi through that (and up to 25psi with a 4 port). Coming from that, the 6boost felt terrible, but honestly functioned really quite fine in the real world.

6boost.jpg

IMG_20180602_130629.jpg

I agree - mine is functional too,  just found it annoying that it the observed boost level so out of whack with the spring rate.

Probably fair to say that with the engine/turbo combinations we really aren't legitimately targeting 1 bar boost though.

15 hours ago, Eager said:

 I aim to run 1.4 bar through the hks evc and hoping that may stabalis things, and bring the boost in harder 

currently just on the wastegate as we couldn sort the boost controller but I will sort that and it’s a hks evc 6 controller, on a power fc 

Open to all advise lads, thanks

 

AD651B7C-5235-4347-A074-A7A0825BA34B.thumb.jpeg.d596fb2d01afbc8c96ed5811b8af2729.jpeg

 

As per Johnny's comments, you need to make 100% sure the boost control plumbing is correctly hooked up.

That boost graph scale is terrible, but trend seems to be creeping from 3800-4800.  That's where your controller should be doing its thing and bringing up boost (and torque) in that range.

That said, how's it drive right now - does it put power to the ground through that range, or turn tyres?

Hi chaps

 

so tonight I got the exhaust vband released from the turbo and plugged a port on the wastegate, that was meant to be plugged with a 1/16th bung. So up until now I’ve actually just had the controller turned off

however, I’ll now attempt to set the controller over the next few evenings. As for driving, it drives nice, a touch laggy but unless provoked it puts all power to the ground without breaking traction. 

I get what your saying and that’s a fair point? Run a lower rated spring and use the controller to bring it up to 1.4. That may prove to be more steady

i looked at how the wastegate is mounted to the manifold, there isn’t a lot of room on there for a install that allows a more ideal mounting with easier gas flows

To add, I’ll describe my boost control lines if one of you could maybe confirm for me I’m correct ?

its a hks evc 6

on the solenoid, looking down on it, barbs out the top

Right barb, goes to inlet manifold

centre barb reads pressure from nipple on intercooler pipe, also T’d over to stock map sensor and To middle port on wastegate

left barb, goes to end port on wastegate 

 

included a pic of the manual and solenoid as described above

FB080612-C173-4978-AE58-55F7707E4D4C.thumb.jpeg.3760ef3655fa6ea5b628508c31bd01c1.jpeg

 

6C342863-107D-4B47-BC3A-37ADA0286354.thumb.jpeg.abfff5c69585da512ec721ef0ba6ad2b.jpeg

 

Can see here the grub screw was missing

EAE73048-39A2-4F8C-A357-74FBF70E2C42.thumb.jpeg.cf4c6c53a46883a5db808ebe9840d741.jpeg

now replaced the missing bung 

look ok lads?

 

Edited by Eager
1 hour ago, Eager said:

As for driving, it drives nice, a touch laggy but unless provoked it puts all power to the ground without breaking traction. 

I get what your saying and that’s a fair point? Run a lower rated spring and use the controller to bring it up to 1.4. That may prove to be more steady

i looked at how the wastegate is mounted to the manifold, there isn’t a lot of room on there for a install that allows a more ideal mounting with easier gas flows

It comes down to what you want to achieve with this setup. For me, traction is king.  Some want maximum mid range punch and enjoy the struggle to master throttle/skid control even on dry roads.

My particular setup allows for more/less boost via a dashboard knob, for driveability in various track conditions. (relatively easy process with an ECU that's newer/more advanced than the Power FC).

In your case, I think what you could try is to get that boost controller functioning, and have the boost come up to the targeted value earlier across that 3800-4800 rpm band.  Given that your target is 1.4 bar, and you're getting 1.35 bar from a 1 bar spring, it's probably fit for purpose.

End of the day, a rock steady flat boost curve might look good on a graph, but not give the desired driving experience. It's down to your preference. But play with the controller and see what you like from the result.

 

It’s a grip car so that’s what I’m after, and I’m guessing that progressive way the boost does come in helps that too,

I’ll try get the controller running. Does my plumbing make sense ?

1.4 is my target on 97 Ron fuel but if it seems reliable I’ll possibly try 1.5, i don’t want to forge the engine however so baby steps I guess. What’s the opinion ? On a safe level for a unopened neo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...