Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Genies,
I need help,

I have an r33 RB25det series 2 Manual.
After driving for 30 minutes the car begins to stutter hard unless i feather the throttle real soft will feel like it's missing.
If I floor it in neutral it bounces from 3k revs up to 4k and won't hit redline. Feels like the engine is rocking a bit but that's probably because I am trying to rev the balls off it 
When driving once it hits 3 k revs the car will start bouncing back and forwards hard and a popping noise will come from the exhaust like it's running rich. This will happen under any moderate or hard acceleration.

If I turn the car off and turn it back on a few minutes later the problem is fixed and the car will run great for the next couple of minutes then the popping and stuttering will resume.

The car drives great when it hasn't been driving for over 30 minutes will hit redline.

I have new NGK iridium plugs -11
And New Osaka Coil Packs which has helped it stutter less
I have re soldered and cleaned the MAF
I ran the ECU got code 33, Heated Oxygen Sensor, I cleaned it put back in. Code hasn't come back also running without o2 still won't rev up

Rescanned got code 44 for ECCS working correctly.


 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474647-rb25det-popping-and-shaking/
Share on other sites

Hey thanks for ur guys replys i tried check fuel pump pressure but couldn't figure out how to do it, 

Car is fully stock pulled out the sparkplugs have yellow on the tips and the metal screw in part it black, gave them all a clean with break cleaner the stutter persists 

They only have about 1500 kms on them 

 

57 minutes ago, NzPeasant said:

Hey am going for a car scan on Friday to diagnose the problem, I will get back and let everyone know what the problem is in case anyone else has this problem thx

Do that ! Where are you taking it as a matter of interest?

Not a bad idea will tee in a fuel pressure guage Ty

Also taking it to a random mechanic shop in Auckland that said they could scan obd1 lol 

Will let u guys know the results 

Vid attached is me flooring car in neutral revved to 4k the first time I did it 

i have a feeling i have a similar issue...with my case my sound just turns into a gruggling sound after 30minutes but the car idle's at perfect 1.1k rpm. The meters are still find, the whiteband reading fine. I don't know...
Some say that i am using water and no antifreeze coolant, causing things to become hot in the radiator and cause bubble. Some say its the thermostat and some say its a blown headgasket.
I know it's not the sparkplugs because i gave the car a service 10days ago with fresh v-power 7 sparkplugs, oil and oilfilter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...