Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My gts-t is driving me nuts with a very faint vibration (can hear it and feel it through the seat) from the rear? that starts around 50 kph and then kind of dies out again and comes back around 100 kph (seems to get faster when it comes back), I had a look around at the back, one of the Hicas balljoints was gone and the wheel had about 5mm play, I have replaced that but it did not made a difference, also have tried a different set of rims and tyres to rule out a balancing issue, no difference. Wheel alignment isn't great, pulls quite hard to the left, going to go for one soon but I'm not sure that would cause a vibration? I'm thinking maybe a wheel bearing starting to go, failing that maybe gearbox output/driveshaft? Any thing else back there that might cause this?

I was thinking maybe tailshaft. Cvs etc.check tailshaft for any damage or possibly a weight falling off. Is it only at that speed or certain rpm??? Balancer maybe and sending vibrations through driveline. Center bearing???

  • Thanks 1

Hmm I got a much needed wheel alignment and it seems to have made the vibration/noise 90% disappear, my guess is that something is still not quite right and the wheels being out of alignment was making it more pronounced. I'm thinking it could potentially be a wheel bearing in the very early stages of starting to go and just rumbling a bit?

Had a good look under the rear this morning at hanger bearing, u-joints, axles, hicas tie rods, everything seems good/tight (doesn't mean something isn't out of balance), then went for a 150km drive through some windy hills and didn't really notice the vibration/noise at all but once I was back on the flat smooth roads in town I could only just detect it. Might just have to give it some time and see if it worsens.

It was the center/hanger bearing, when checking under the car the first time it seemed ok but after dropping the driveshaft I found that the rubber was intact but the bearing itself had a fair bit of play in it so I think when the driveshaft was spinning at certain speeds it was causing it to vibrate, replaced it today and the noise is totally gone. Happy days.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...