Rb26dett rebuild options

[Zacyz]

Hey peeps recently just purchased an r32gtr for it to loose compression which I found to be piston rings. Currently tossing up options on rebuilding with forged internals to suit around 450-500kw if I choose to go single turbo down the track or if I should hunt a second hand motor. 

Just wanting advice on roughly how much a standard rebuild and building a built motor would cost with parts needed. 

Uploaded is comp results wet and dry 

[GTSBoy]

It's gunna cost lots.  This is what it costs to do a minimal upgrade build.  A "stock" rebuild will still cost a good fraction of that - at least half.

[Zacyz]

Any advice on brands for rebuild 

[KiwiRS4T]

There are plenty of build threads for you to research. Or you could read through the turbo upgrades thread. First you need to decide if you want and/or can afford to turn your old tired R32 into a 500kw weapon. The engine work above is just part of the picture and doesn't include a new turbo, ECU, injectors etc followed by transmission, brakes, suspension including wheels and tyres...anything up to $30K, 40K or more.

[Zacyz]

Atm I just installed gt2860-7 hks v cams tein coils with electric dampening currently has power fc but won’t be chasing that figure for a while just want the motor to be able to handle it when it comes down that road

[GTSBoy]

Look at what Darren does for the money I linked.  Think about the value of the new/replacement/aftermarket parts that go into it, vs. what it would cost to renew or recondition original parts (with original parts in the case of renew/replace) - which is going to still be a significant fraction of the upgraded parts.  Then consider that almost all the labour still has to be done.  It's not possible to do this stuff for less than quite a few thousand unless you are able to do the labour yourself and have access to parts that won't cost you much.  As a retail proposition, it's time to sell blood/semen/kidneys/arms/legs for most people.

[WantGTR]

cheapest option? wrecker engine. old one out. new one in. can be done over a weekend. pros; minimal downtime, cost effective. cons; used performance engine.

dont want that and want the next step? start saving. starting from the bottom of the engine you will spend 5k before you even touch the block. think; upgraded sump, front diff, block brace. thats just the start...

moral of the story, get yourself a serious coke habit. its cheaper lol

[Zacyz]

My issue with building the motor is I won’t know when to stop ahaha on that case any tips getting second hand motor? Sydney

[WantGTR]

Usually budget is the stopper for everything. Even though you have the funds to go  billet block, dry sump, race head and promos doesn't necessarily mean you should.

If you are going to chase power you will do everything. Bottom end. Head. Fuel setup. Turbo. Clutch. Everything.

This will take time and money.

Or you can fix what's broken and be content with what it is. 

I got my engine built. Makes 800hp. It's sick but it was off the road for almost 2 years and it was heaps of stuffing around. 

This is the time you need to decide what you want out of the car. 

 

[Zacyz]

2 hours ago, WantGTR said:

Usually budget is the stopper for everything. Even though you have the funds to go  billet block, dry sump, race head and promos doesn't necessarily mean you should.

If you are going to chase power you will do everything. Bottom end. Head. Fuel setup. Turbo. Clutch. Everything.

This will take time and money.

Or you can fix what's broken and be content with what it is. 

I got my engine built. Makes 800hp. It's sick but it was off the road for almost 2 years and it was heaps of stuffing around. 

This is the time you need to decide what you want out of the car. 

 

I’m not chasing big power will most likely stay in the 300kw area but I’d prefer a full rebuild just for peace in mind rather than buying one of a wreck for big bucks for the same thing to happen. So I think maybe a near standard build should be sufficient for my needs 

[CU's GTR]

Ultimately it comes done to the amount of$$$ you can afford.
Forged pistons are around 8k.
Turbos if you want twin still 3k.
Injectors with fuel rail 1k. 1150cc
Brakes for that amount of power 6k
Clutch 3-4k
New wheels to suit brakes depends on style is around 3k with tyres
Work on the head of the engine 3k
Hising etc. Varies
Then the install costs.

[WantGTR]

Is the engine still in the car? Do you know why you lost comp? 

You can save money by pulling out the motor yourself. Strip everything off it and take it to a shop for a rebuild. They can do the hard part.

In the mean time you can clean everything and take your time putting it back together, cleaning, painting, new hoses, new gaskets. After the initial build it's the add ons that shoot the bill up. Are you going to paint the engine bay? Rebuild CVS?

Going single is VERY expensive. It is the same a turbo charging a non turbo motor. NOTHING on your twin setup can be used. Keep that in mind.

Fuel setup, just injectors? Going e85? Larger lines? Pumps?

Ignition and electrical upgrade?

Ecu?

Clutch? Gearbox?

Tune?

Point is shit gets out of hand VERY quickly. You can spend 5k, wrecker engine, swap it over and keep on cruising or by the time you're done your bill will be over 30k

[Zacyz]

1 hour ago, WantGTR said:

Is the engine still in the car? Do you know why you lost comp? 

You can save money by pulling out the motor yourself. Strip everything off it and take it to a shop for a rebuild. They can do the hard part.

In the mean time you can clean everything and take your time putting it back together, cleaning, painting, new hoses, new gaskets. After the initial build it's the add ons that shoot the bill up. Are you going to paint the engine bay? Rebuild CVS?

Going single is VERY expensive. It is the same a turbo charging a non turbo motor. NOTHING on your twin setup can be used. Keep that in mind.

Fuel setup, just injectors? Going e85? Larger lines? Pumps?

Ignition and electrical upgrade?

Ecu?

Clutch? Gearbox?

Tune?

Point is shit gets out of hand VERY quickly. You can spend 5k, wrecker engine, swap it over and keep on cruising or by the time you're done your bill will be over 30k

My best mate is painter/panel beater and will be fixing up the engine bay paint while motor is out and we have a work shop we can use to pull the motor out atm with fuel system will be going most likely 750cc or 1000cc injectors with a new rail and pump most likely won’t see e85 or a single bit if I choose to build it might as well build to suit incase and I’m just skeptics on buying a motor from a wreck due to no warranty and motor has shit compression due to rings failing still starts drives and runs (currently not driving to prevent further damage)

[WantGTR]

1 hour ago, Zacyz said:

My best mate is painter/panel beater and will be fixing up the engine bay paint while motor is out and we have a work shop we can use to pull the motor out atm with fuel system will be going most likely 750cc or 1000cc injectors with a new rail and pump most likely won’t see e85 or a single bit if I choose to build it might as well build to suit incase and I’m just skeptics on buying a motor from a wreck due to no warranty and motor has shit compression due to rings failing still starts drives and runs (currently not driving to prevent further damage)

Of course. Wrecker engine could last 1 week or 5 years. Never know. Just know that if that sump comes off it's $$$$$ of the bat.

[32psi]

Just go a stock RB30 block for the time being. You wont see 500rwkw with it but you'll get damn close for a fraction on E85 with a set of rod bolts, oil pump and new rings. Sell your twins setup. Find a used 6boost with a turbo strapped on. Put your money to a new fuel system, clutch and a good tuner.

[Zacyz]

9 hours ago, 32psi said:

Just go a stock RB30 block for the time being. You wont see 500rwkw with it but you'll get damn close for a fraction on E85 with a set of rod bolts, oil pump and new rings. Sell your twins setup. Find a used 6boost with a turbo strapped on. Put your money to a new fuel system, clutch and a good tuner.

9 hours ago, 32psi said:

Not too fussed about the power figure just want the car on the road

[CU's GTR]

The best thing to do is talk to a place that deals with GTR's they can advise on costs and what you should do with a budget. If you are in Melbourne, go to Race pace in Bayswater.

[klutched]

Like the others have said if youre not willing to spend 20k on just your motor then just get a stock replacement.

Heres a quick run down on parts cost. My prices are probably a little cheaper as i get trade price

Pistons/rods youre looking at around 3k for a spool kit if you option in your upgraded rod bolts and pins etc. (Comes with bearings)
Machining/assembly for my motor cost me 2200 for balance, bore, hone, acid clean block, machine sump for girdle. Mains were good as it has been done before for the billet mains, but tunnel bore/hone could be on the cards depending.
Nitto pump 1500 or N1 pump with gears 1000

Plus the rest of the stuff, gaskets seals, baffles, breathers, cams and then the big killer which is labour. 

RB26 Built head cost me 5k - race port, ferrea os valves, bronze guides, kelford springs, full service, seats cut etc. Doesnt include cams. Obviously you don't have to go that crazy on your head as I'm chasing big power.

You could potentially get away with 7k+/- for a fully upgraded built bottom end. Get your head serviced, mild port, throw some cams and springs in roughly 3k+/-. Atleast you'd have a reliable motor ready to go when you decide to make more power instead of dropping 40-50k in a short amount of time.