Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Personally, I think the RB25DETT deal sounds too good to be true.

I agree. I don’t advise any one to do such a conversion IMHO. The motor in the Silvia owes big money. 600rwhp and a 10second time slip.

All sounds good, but could have been done ALOT cheaper starting out with an rb26dett.

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well lets way up the prospects to get 300kw@wheels in a standard 2.6 i would expect that you would have to replace the turbos, ecu, at least then replace wiring loom? labour to install engine?? then you have to add the cost of the engine itself, keeping that in mind you have still standard internals!!! or you could rebuild your rb25 to suit the twin turbo setup , install an apexi , and go sick!! but guys dont get me wrong either we all know a gtr 2.6 would be the best option but also the most expensive, from what i see you dont have to run full boost 300kw@wheels anyway . after any car running this sort of power figures would need to be modified- but the guy claims with correct tunning and engine combo this etup would out preform a standard 2.6tt package and plans to market it as GODZILLA KILLA.only time will tell hey!!

well lets way up the prospects  to get 300kw@wheels in a standard 2.6 i would expect that you would have to replace the turbos, ecu, at least then replace wiring loom? labour to install engine?? then you have to add the cost of the engine itself, keeping that in mind you have still standard internals!!! or you could rebuild your rb25 to suit the twin turbo setup , install an apexi , and go sick!! but guys dont get me wrong either we all know a gtr 2.6 would be the best option but also the most expensive, from what i see you dont have to run full boost 300kw@wheels anyway . after any car running this sort of power figures would need to be modified- but the guy claims with correct tunning and engine combo this etup would out preform a standard 2.6tt package and plans to market it as GODZILLA KILLA.only time will tell hey!!

I don't think you're thinking this through clearly. Yes, an engine transplant is expensive, but doing a non-factory, semi-custom twin turbo set up is going to be just as expensive. You can't just slap it all together, install an 'Apexi' (not sure what you're referring to there, I assume a PowerFC) and 'go sick'.

A proper rebuild is going to cost you at a very, cost cutting minimum of $2k (parts and labour), then $3k for the for the twin turbo kit, easily $1k for the installation and screwing about on that if you don't do it yourself which I'd advise against, then $1k for a Power FC, $750 (roughly) for an decent EBC, $1k for bigger injectors, $400 for a bigger fuel pump, then at least $500 for a decent tune, both for the PFC and the EBC. We're up to $10k already and you're still 100cc less than an RB26, which does make a difference.

An RB26 doesn't need the rebuild because the internals will handle up to 350-400rwkw from all reports, it doesn't need the labour of the rebuild, it comes with solid lifters, 440 injecters, fairly lumpy cams, an extra 100cc of capacity, all for roughly $6k, and that price generally includes the stock ECU and loom, if not afm's and and piping. A set of more aggresive cams would cost you roughly $1k for a set of bolt in Tomei's, and $1.5k for a set of better turbos. Installation would be roughly $1k, so $9.5k there.

I'm sure you're saying "$500, so what?" but the thing is, the $9.5k will be just that. there won't be any hidden problems like finding out the manifold you got hasn't be welded properly because it's a 'custom' job, or that extra injector controller and injectors is set up dangerously, or whoever you get to do it has to take an extra amount of time because the sellers didn't say that he'd have to **** about with X, Y and Z.

A car recieving an RB26 does not need to be heavily modified because it's a factory spec engine. Nissan have done the hard work for you, you almost literally give it a dust off, set the loom and ecu in the correct places and put it in.

I know you like this idea Code Blue, and if you're determined, nothing we say will stop you from doing it, but listen to Nismo_Boy, because he's done what you want to do.

My advice is to get some experience swinging spanners and welding, like I did, and it's nowhere near as expensive from there as most of it is DIY. Bollocks to buying someone elses kit. Also if you can afford the time, get a mech eng degree too, helps heaps.

Ultimately for you to get a workshop to do this will be very Exxy, and they'll love you for the money you'll spend.

so you would not need injectors ??? fuel pump???? pfc ???? ebc ????? or even dyno tune the rb26 to reach the same power level lol this would bump your rb26 conversion cost up a little bit , if you are going to compare apples to oranges why bother

Don't need a PFC for the RB26, the 26 stock ECU is fine, because you're only changing mechanical devices: turbos and cams. You'll need some aftermarket help for the RB25 because it's stocker has no idea about having two turbos. The RB26 440ccinjectors should be fine, and apparently they have a bit more headroom at higher PSI levels, you might need a new fuel pump, so what's that? $400?

They're hardly apples and oranges, if you can't see that, you've got rocks in your head, but hey, it's your money, you do what you want. Good luck with it, hope it doesn't bite you in the arse... but I have a feeling it will.

An RB26 doesn't need the rebuild because the internals will handle up to 350-400rwkw from all reports, it doesn't need the labour of the rebuild, it comes with solid lifters, 440 injecters, fairly lumpy cams, an extra 100cc of capacity, all for roughly $6k, and that price generally includes the stock ECU and loom, if not afm's and and piping. A set of more aggresive cams would cost you roughly $1k for a set of bolt in Tomei's, and $1.5k for a set of better turbos. Installation would be roughly $1k, so $9.5k there.

...BUT of course any rb26dett you pick up off the shelf from somewhere, its going to be as good as the day it came out of the factory yes? :rofl:

anyhow, who knows how serious you are.. but just spend the money on building a very strong rb25det and single, don't dick around code blue.. GTR and twin turbo setups are for the most part for GTR and 4WD..crossing the water only works if you have a lot of money to throw at the project.

Geoff, how painful is the manifold side of things? Is it simply a case of slicing off the flanges and then getting them rewelded to match up the 25 head, or is it more complex than that?
Straight cut, shut, weld and port match on only 2 of the flanges. You wouldn't drill and tap to suit as there may be water jacket issues.

You don't want a GTR engine due to the crappy sump and the need to replace it or weld and baffle it. :rofl:

Seriously I think I can do it for a lot less than people think, but shopping around is the key. If I don't like it I sell it and put my setup back on and maybe even make money, and learn a little.

you finished now??? well i look at it like this you could buy this system $3000.00 fit microtec ecu ( no need for afmeters) direct plug in unit with controller for $1300.00 run only 7psi boost pressure ( lets say 250kw@wheels ) lets forget the 300kw@wheels for the moment as we seem to all think that anyone who purchases the system would have to rebuild there engine ( only if you plan to run high boost pressure ) sure but his can be done at a later stage as finaces become available ( not all of us have 10k to spend in 1 hit on a 2.6 setup ) at this point i would have spent $5000.00 at worst i could always add engine rebuild - fuel pump- injectors- ect as your finaces would permit at a later stage ,the fact is any engine that produces 300kw@wheels will need alot of money injected into it!!!! regardless 2.5 2.6 , thats if you own a gtst , its not fun being the little brother of godzilla, we try to be like them at yet we get lectures even if we dream , if i had the money i would look long and hard, but i dont the point for any turbo system able to produce even 250kw@ for a gtst fully rebuilt with manifolds , dump pipes , braided oil lines silicon hose ect is still damn cheap for 3k sorry for dreaming!!!!!!!!!!

Geez, someone's a bit touchy.

You have several people giving you helpful advice, in case you were about to blow a lot of money, and playing devil's advocate so you could look at it objectively, instead of going "WOW, TW!n TURB0S!! L33T! MUST HAVE! EVERYONE IS WRONG EXCEPT FOR ME AND MY DREAM! LOLZ!!!1!! KTHXBI" and blowing a wad of cash on something that could be done more effectively and safely and mildly more cheaply.

Yes, GTS owners (me included) have the 'Little brother of GTR' stigma to combat when we're trying to build a car that is capable and quick in it's own right, but you have to balance things up. Do you want to spend all that money just to have two turbos? Most GTR's go to a big single anyway after they've gotten what they can out of the twin setup.

Like I said before, I totally understand the want/need to have a unique(ish) car, to make your baby stand out from the crowd, but you don't cut off your nose to spite your face.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've been reading a lot lately about unsprung weight and how beneficial it can be to reduce it for driving on the track, given my semi's only have another day or two in them I am throwing around the idea of some lighter wheels and a square set up. I have 265/35/19's and 245/40(?)/19 Federal 595's at the moment. The wheels and tyres are super heavy. I looked up my wheel weight online and got 14.5kg naked. Not sure if this was 8.5 (front) or 9 (rear) but that's a lot. I have also been reading about the benefits of a square setup. Much better rotation and potentially less understeer.  When I throw these together I'm thinking about a 17x9 or 18x9 square (preferably under 10kgs per wheel) with 245 or 255's. I can get some cheap 17x8.5 BMW M Sport wheels, they weight 10.5 kg's each but at 8.5 wide could probably only get 245's on them? I know they come with 255's from factory but semi's are a bit chunkier. Otherwise it will be aftermarket wheels in a 9" width. Most of the other BMW wheels are heavy unless you pay a squillion dollars for some M wheels.  Although, the E46 M3 Style 67's could be good but I'd have to buy 2 sets to square them up.  My car has a tickle over 400hp and about to put an LSD in also, is 245 a little thin for a square setup? It kinda feels that way to me. Also, is there any tangible benefit to having 18's over 17's? Is the footprint demonstrably bigger? From those of you who went to light(er) wheels after heavy buggers, did you notice it much?
    • Start with the R32 GTR wiring diagram. The ECU is essentially the same, so the pinouts are good. The details around ECCS relays, etc might differ a little bit, but the reality is that you need to get ignition power to kick the ECU so it powers up the ECCS relay which brings the rest of the ECU up. This also gives power to the other circuits that are needed to make the engine run, like the ignition coils, etc. All of this is visible on the R32 diagram and should give you a strong guide, even if it's not quite the same as the R33. As to specifics - I'm pretty sure no-one can help you from afar, as there is no way to know what mistake or omission has been made in connecting stuff up. It always turns out to be "LOL, I shorted something and an entire wire vanished out of the loom", or "We never connected X or Y main connector", or "shit, you mean I need to have that fuse installed?".
    • hello wanted some insight on what my problem could be so i swapped a RB26DETT into my r33 gtst used a R33 GTR engine harness and im using a haltech platinum pro. The car cranks but no start the ecu isn’t getting any power now im trying to find out why i cant seem to find any schematics  or diagram for the engine harness for the r33 gtr anything helps thank you.
    • hahahaa @GTSBoy that is my last resort. Like use a cardboard and cut it using the indicator as a reference. But I was winging my luck to see anyone had a spare bumper because drawing the outline off the hole is always easier and less chance of mucking it up
    • Admittedly in that screenshot its doing about 13psi but later on in the log theres definitely spikes to 16. What is missing though is the massive peak, then a big drop and then a recovery. While it does go a little higher than I would like on base pressure, I think it's reasonably safe to assume that boost control via the mac valve should be a lot easier to control from here on out. I wasn't game to hook up the mac valve today as it's very wet and it's on the verge of fighting traction as it is.
×
×
  • Create New...