Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I know its probably not the right spot to post but mechanics are mechanics.

Background info, car developed an annoying whine. Slowly got worse. This is the sound. Its the big bearing on the end of the viscous coupling.

 

None the less, Subaru want a kidney for the bearing. The bearing part number is 6911. My local shop ordered me a japanese KSM 6911 but there is a 2RS stamp on the bearing, indicating it is a double rubber seal bearing.

Shop guy said these work better than standard open bearings as crap and gunk will not get into the bearing and they're pregreased. My concern is the heat. I understand the standard open bearing will have continuous oil flow, helping pull heat away.

Is this of a concern?

A-8-6911-2RS-SKF-EN.jpg  VS 51WHKRIt%2BkL._SX342_.jpg

Does anyone know any shop or contact who has NSK 6911 open bearings available in Australia?

All help is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475338-centre-diff-bearings-in-wrx/
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

@SargeRX8 what was the outcome of this? i have exactly the same sound coming from my gearbox and have been told its either the centre diff, transfer gear bearings or centre diff bearing. im guessing it would be worth replacing all of the above but im curious if the bearing you installed got rid of the sound.  vid below of mine, happens around the same speeds as the vid you posted.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...