Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I got pulled over today in my R34 GTR and was told by the police officer that I have a few modifications that may not be roadworthy such as BOV, larger wheels, front mount and pod filter just to name a few. He was cool and a car enthusiast so he let me off but this got me thinking and I want to get my cars engineered to avoid hassles each time I get randomly pulled over again.

Has anyone gotten their car engineered? If so, could you please advise what the process involved, costings and where to do it as I have no clue?

Thanks in advance.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475434-process-in-getting-a-car-engineered/
Share on other sites

Step 1

Post up your location.

I am sure it varies from place to place and you will be looking for recommendations for places near you.

Step 2

Do some research and check whether you have anything which is never going to be compliant and remove it.

Look up people who are qualified (there should be a list) and see if their charges differ. Take into account the experience of other members in choosing a certifier.

Make sure your car is clean and doesn't have an obviously excessively noisy exhaust.

 

  • Thanks 1
19 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Step 1

Post up your location.

I am sure it varies from place to place and you will be looking for recommendations for places near you.

Step 2

Do some research and check whether you have anything which is never going to be compliant and remove it.

Look up people who are qualified (there should be a list) and see if their charges differ. Take into account the experience of other members in choosing a certifier.

Make sure your car is clean and doesn't have an obviously excessively noisy exhaust.

 

Hey mate, appreciate the reply.

I'm located in the west of VIC and have no experience with getting an engineering check up. Do I bring it to a motor mechanic and they do it or do I need to bring it to a specialist place. My GTRs are pretty modified so the question is - do I remove mods first? 

I wlll also do a little more research.

Edited by Robocop2310

My experience is limited to NZ but it will be broadly similar. Yes you will have to find a place that is licensed to do the work. No you do not have to remove all the mods - the idea is to certify them as safe/legal but it would be a good idea to try to find out which mods are absolutely not permitted so that you can remove them for the inspection (and maybe put them back afterwards if they are not too obvious!).

31 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

My experience is limited to NZ but it will be broadly similar. Yes you will have to find a place that is licensed to do the work. No you do not have to remove all the mods - the idea is to certify them as safe/legal but it would be a good idea to try to find out which mods are absolutely not permitted so that you can remove them for the inspection (and maybe put them back afterwards if they are not too obvious!).

Thanks mate!

I will look around for a tester.

If anyone has a good place to recommend that’s a bit more “lenient” please let me know.

It's not a workshop or a "tester".  There are engineers listed on the RTA (insert name of bunch of arseholes in your state) website that are permitted to certify vehicle modifications.  These are real automotive engineers, not mechanics, that know what has to be done/tested/proven to ensure that any proposed modification is safe and legal.  You contact one of these guys and you start paying him as a professional for his consultation and ultimately his certification.

  • Like 2
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

It's not a workshop or a "tester".  There are engineers listed on the RTA (insert name of bunch of arseholes in your state) website that are permitted to certify vehicle modifications.  These are real automotive engineers, not mechanics, that know what has to be done/tested/proven to ensure that any proposed modification is safe and legal.  You contact one of these guys and you start paying him as a professional for his consultation and ultimately his certification.

Thanks for the info mate. Sounds troublesome and a tideous process but I will ring do some research and will call around later this week when I get some time.

 

There's a lot of FUD around getting a car engineered in VIC, it sounds complicated and expensive but there seem to be surprisingly few first hand experiences on getting it done.

A data point of one but I spoke to a guy recently who's got an LS1 in his R34 fully engineered, he said it was not hard at all and cost less than 1k. YMMV, as always.

1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

There's a lot of FUD around getting a car engineered in VIC, it sounds complicated and expensive but there seem to be surprisingly few first hand experiences on getting it done.

A data point of one but I spoke to a guy recently who's got an LS1 in his R34 fully engineered, he said it was not hard at all and cost less than 1k. YMMV, as always.

Thanks mate I’ll keep what you said in mind.

It’s appaling but I don’t want to drive around feeling like a “criminal” when in my GTRs and having cops hassling all the time when I don’t drive stupidly or anything to attract attention.

Edited by Robocop2310
  • Like 1

Hey guys, so I rang a local engineer and was quoted between $1,200 to $2,000 to have my car engineered which includes a full assessment, summary of how to comply if any defectable mods found and also a full report at the end which will take 1-4 weeks.

From initial discussions there is no way I would pass an inspection.

For this money with almost certain failure I would tend to think this is an extensive exercise.

Cheers 

I wouldn't worry about it unless you actually get put off the road and forced to get engineers, even then it's easier to remove the offending parts get vass certificate and be on your way. Most coppers these days wont give you problems if the car isn't abnoxiously loud and you're not a smart arse.

  • Like 1
46 minutes ago, admS15 said:

I wouldn't worry about it unless you actually get put off the road and forced to get engineers, even then it's easier to remove the offending parts get vass certificate and be on your way. Most coppers these days wont give you problems if the car isn't abnoxiously loud and you're not a smart arse.

I agree mate. Might not bother as it potentially could return my car to stock and cost thousands!

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, the money for the engineer is in the right ballpark, then you have to budget for whatever you have to get done to make it good enough for the Mexican sphincter squad.

Exactly! The quoted price is just for the assessment then it’s a blank cheque for what that’s needed! 

Not worth the exercise or money!

2 hours ago, Robocop2310 said:

Not worth the exercise or money!

Kinda depends on how likely your mods are to get you defected.  You live in Vic and you have to face the biggest pack of (unt$ in all of Australia, every time you take the car out on the road.

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Kinda depends on how likely your mods are to get you defected.  You live in Vic and you have to face the biggest pack of (unt$ in all of Australia, every time you take the car out on the road.

Agreed. It's as if they have quotas to meet or something. Whenever I drive my cars out, I kinda feel like a criminal it's just sad and I don't hoon or anything. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...