Jump to content
SAU Community

The pursuit of decent power in my auto ?

paulzy123
 Share

Recommended Posts

paulzy123 Enthusiast

paulzy123

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You’re right, the turbo did sound whistley  on the drive up to the mapper and doesn’t sound half as bad now.

The turbo did over come the leak but at the cost of working harder. Surely it would have build boost differently to if the gasket wasn’t leaking? That’s the best thing about analogue gauges as you can observe fluctuations and trends, digital doesn’t really let you see that unless you are logging...

  • 1 month later...
paulzy123 Enthusiast

paulzy123

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I got a pal of mine who’s mapped a few Emanage ultimates to plug his lap top into the Emanage to see if there was anything untoward or just to look at the map (it’s just numbers to me) .

I was a bit out off at the shock he was in as he said that it was retarded across the entire rev range, also, the afm was selected as a standard afm and not as a z32 one which I have, the injectors were also standard when they should have been selected as 440cc.

We took it out with his wide band stuffed up the exhaust ?

He said it was really rich, we got back to mine and he tested the lambda sensor, it was “flatlined” so that needs replacing. 

The only thing that I can confirm is that the brown plug behind the drivers headlight does not lock the timing at 15 degrees when it’s unplugged but does lock the auto box in third as I asked him to measure it. So that is good for mapping on the dyno I guess.

So, I’m going to get a new sensor and ask him to have a crack at mapping it. Or at least ask him to take another look.

Will report back... ?

 

Just for reference its this brown plug ?

A5A3C3C0-9124-4BE2-ADAE-2DB78B5921CD.png

  • 1 month later...
paulzy123 Enthusiast

paulzy123

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Quick update..

So the car go’s to a show this weekend and I know driving without a decent map could be engine suicide but I’ve had the fuel curve looked at and have been assured that’s it’s safe and there’s so much timing pulled out of it that it won’t det so I’ll trundle down to the show.

Took it out this saterday just gone to make sure everything is just so and ended up forgetting that it shouldn’t be thrashed until it’s been looked at properly and gave it the full biscuit... to my surprise it took off like hell in the night, it felt like it did previously, like before I lost the 58hp the only thing I’ve done recently is stop the re circ from the cam covers to the intake and blank off the lines from the plenum to carbon canister (now gone). I’m not complaining but I’d like to know what the hell is going on still, maybe the maf needs a clean? It is third hand so I may try that.... I’m getting it totally looked at early next month, the entire shooting match mechanically and ECU side by somebody that is very familiar with the emu and can spanner as well....

Will report back...

Edited by paulzy123
Spelling
  • 1 month later...
paulzy123 Enthusiast

paulzy123

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi,

The problem is fixed, I took it to a mate of mine that mapped his own car on the Emanage ultimate. He spent a good long time looking at the wiring. The injector earth wire had a dry joint in the pin in the loom connector and eventually snapped when we went to road map it so that got a new soldered lug. The lambda sensor was goosed so that got replaced. The SAFC 2 I was using to monitor knock still had a map on it and was wired in series with the Emanage wiring which was causing issues so the AFM side of it got removed, the AFM (z32) was spiking at 3.8 volts then dropping to 2.8volts straight after which was also causing problems so he “clamped the voltage?” Apparently it’s not to be used as a permanent fix it’s till I buy another AFM. We spent a couple of hours driving around and doing pulls while he sat on an ancient laptop typing and clicking away saying, “try that” and “do that again” until he turned to me and said right let’s turn the boost up. 

At 18 psi it felt immense and it really was quick enough but he said I could go more so I did but in the end I settled at 19psi as upping it more didn’t seem to feel any quicker. All in all I was on the road around four hours and in his garage at least a day ?

Its quite quick now, well for an auto.

Well, that concludes my thread, thanks for all your advice and help ?

Cheers

Paul

  • Like 4
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

All's well that ends well. One lesson to be learned is that its very hard to guarantee  a good tune. The tuner might be over -rated, or a shop with a good reputation may hand the job to an employee who is not up to par (although one would like to think that such a person would have their work checked). One thing is for sure a good tune takes time and money!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...