Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone out there know the trick to removing the centre console on a Cefiro to install a new Head Unit?? I cant seem to locate any clips/screws ect for the unit that surrounds the gearstick. (it appears that this is the first peice which will allow access to mounting screws for the rest)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47632-removing-cefiro-centre-console/
Share on other sites

Take the gear knob off and gently pull the gearboot surround upwards until it unclips......that will reveal 2 screws. After removeing those 2 screws.simply pull on the stereo surround. It will unclip.

so it's pretty similar to a skyline in that regards?

all sorted. got to love the jap cars build quality, taking apart, and reassembling the cefiro was not too bad (compared to other cars I have done) all i had to do was reverse the removal order to make everything fit back together perfectly.

the real bitch with the cefiro was the parcel shelf, ended up having to take the entire back seats out to get the shelf off. stupid air cleaner thingy was in the way.

will post up some pics of the work in a bit

thanks for the assistance!~

hey kursed. What did u replace the POS front 4x6's with?.. Im getting to much sound from the back and cant even it out atm.

Im running pioneer 6x9's at the back on a parcel shelf as the back tray is metal.

With a 12inch sub of a schnieder amp.

BTW I had to pull the damn back seats out too. Took me like 30 minutes to find a way through. See pic below where i did mines.

1.jpg

ceffo.

hey kursed. What did u replace the POS front 4x6's with?.. Im getting to much sound from the back and cant even it out atm.

QUOTE]

I wanted to put 6 inchers up front to get more volume out of them. I bought fusion 6 inch with tweeters, then I screw mounted the tweeters on the side mirror panels (which pop out with 2 screws removed) and fabricated a quick MDF panel for each of the 6 inchers to replace the crapola 4x6's. You can just remove the whole frame the 4x6's are in, and then use the 4 screw holes as the mounting points for the mdf panels.

sounds about 10,000 times better now.

I didn't take any pics of the panels installed but you can see them on the ground in my photos.

finding those two bolts hidden in the bottom of the pull down middle seat was the biggest stumper ay!!! that took us a while.... :cheers:

did you install your sub in the middle there? did you face it into the body or away?

i found the sub worked best facing the spare wheel arch oddly enough. so its sideways when you open the boot!! hehehe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...