Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Any one got a rb20det base map file for a wolf v4 plugin , that they would be willing to share with me?

 

I want to have a play but am new to wolf and am unsure of a couple of the settings to get correct injector/spark order, as the wolf v4 unit may have 25det tune.

 

I contacted wolf and the unit does both 20/25 without any wire changes.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477024-wolfv4-map-rb20det/
Share on other sites

As far as i could see in the downloads the maps they have are for 25.
The boss man at wolf said it could be tuned to suite 20 and the injectors/spark pins shouldnt need swapping to correct.

Surely someone with a 20det map or some know how on these old wolf v4 plug in units.

17 minutes ago, Slap said:

The boss man at wolf said it could be tuned to suite 20 and the injectors/spark pins shouldnt need swapping to correct.

Yuh, that's my point. 3 injector drivers, 3 coil drivers. These are in pairs, so the chances of getting them wrong between near identical engines is really small.  It's firing the opposite cylinders at the same time, every revolution of the engine. Just wire it up. If it fires, you got it right. If it doesn't, there's only 2 more permutations of connections to try.

  • Like 1

Its plugin so wiring it up is prety easy. Lol.

Hmmm wonder if its the same 2 firing and that may be why it works on 20 det...

If i recall its cyl 4 and 6 that are different pins between the 25 and 20 ecu.

Thanks for the info. Ill do some sussing.

Still would be nice to get a gold of a base map for the 20 oposed to the 25.

Use the 25 map and pull out timing on the cruise/vac area to start.

Or download haltech ecu manager and open up a RB20DET map and transpose the data into Wolf.

Also all RBs have the same firing order.

  • Like 1

Isnt there an injetor on a different pin for the 25 compared to the 20?

Use the 25 map and pull out timing on the cruise/vac area to start.
Or download haltech ecu manager and open up a RB20DET map and transpose the data into Wolf.
Also all RBs have the same firing order.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...