Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm slowly piecing together my build and I'm in need of some advice on fuel lines for my build and hope some of you could chime in.


Parts I already have:
- Dual Walbro 460's (intank)
- Twin entry, center return fuel rail with AN6 fittings
- Fuel Lab fuel pressure regulator with AN6 fittings
- ID1000 injectors
- Fuel used will be 98 pump gas

I am looking at buying a billet fuel hat and have a few options for the feed and return fittings, either: single AN6/AN8/AN10 feed, dual AN6/AN8 feed and single AN6/AN8 return.

So my questions:
- As my FPR and fuel rail are fitted with AN6 fittings will it be okay to run dual AN6 lines from the fuel hat to the rail and a single AN6 return? Will this be enough to support @800hp without too much pressure drop?
- Would it be better to run a single AN8 or AN10 feed line to the front and have a Y split to dual AN6 lines to the rail and AN6 return?
- How do you guys rate the Raceworks hoses and fittings? Any good?

*The car will be used as a street/drag car, forged RB25DET, it will run a 6466, nitrous (wet), manual and whatever boost is needed to run at least 10's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478021-fuel-system-advice-needed/
Share on other sites

I'm going through this process at the mo, plan is to use the hicas lines for feed and return, fpg adapters for hicas to -8, split to -6 to dual feed hks rail, turbosmart fpr1200 reg, id1750 injectors and fpg intank kit with twin walbros, Teflon fuel lines

  • Like 1
10 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

ID1000's will not outflow a single -6 line, though i presume with Nitros you'll be upgrading injectors?

-6 can feed my 1300cc's with no issues.

 

Thanks, for now I will be using the ID1000's as I already have them but if I eventually run out of injector I can easily upgrade them, the fuel lines I'd like to do once.
I don't see myself needing bigger injectors than 1300's in the future so good to know -6 at the rail will be fine.

The nitrous kit is a wet system so the extra fuel will come through the solenoid so upgrading injectors will not be needed because of nitrous.

8 hours ago, burn4005 said:

man im running 500awkw of e85 through stock 5/16" line so anything better than that will be fine.

Thanks, good to know!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...