Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ahoy team

rebuilding an rb25det gearbox at the moment. No idea what year it's from as bought it off gumtree but appears to be the older type with shonky 3rd-4th insert springs that are known to fail (I found their mashed-up corpses in the drained oil). Got most of the parts i need now but want to replace 3rd gear and the 3rd>4th coupler, however bit of a snag, a stumbling block if you will...the original Nissan part number for these 2 items is long since discontinued and over a week of searching, while some good info found, hasn't given me any clear answers. 

RHDJapan has given me this info for the 3rd gear and coupler>

902709720_3rdgearnewpartno..JPG.43d6a88a53a3b0c280393567771843e7.JPG

1610998966_3-4couplernewpartno..JPG.6c02f17266da72313f0557a7d834adf2.JPG

 

However for both of those new part numbers, i have read that they're not a direct-fit and need a spacer, new syncro hub and possibly other bits to make it work with the older gearboxes. 

Has anyone seen them, used them, or seen and used them, and know if they will work with the older boxes or not...? 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478562-rb25-gearbox-change-of-parts/
Share on other sites

you are going to need essentially the same parts as doing an OS Giken gearset into a pre 97 box.

– 3rd gear synchronizer baulk ring ( 1 x 32604-30P61)
– 4th gear synchronizer baulk ring (1 x 32604-40P61)
– Slider(1 x 32611-AA510)
– Hub Assy(1 x 32605-30P11)
– Energizer inserts(3 x 32609-70L15)
– Energizer insert springs (2 x 32603-30P00)

I'll check but I think that's it, unless you use the above in pre 97 stuff.

thanks for the reply - just got an update from RHDJpn that the part number they gave me -  3rd gear Nissan 32261-12U04  - has been discontinued too, and this time they didn't have an alternate part number. I have been scouring the www over a week now and can't find any online seller that has the older type of 3rd gear, so might have to just put up with the one I have.

I should have all the pre 97 stuff that was in good condition that came out of my box when I broke 3rd and build my OS Giken, if that helps. Actually I should have 2 sets of everything (obviously not 3rd main gear, just one)as I just recently had a dog box done too.

thanks for the offer - my 3rd gear's still intact/ok, it's just the dogteeth are a bit rounded, and since i'm rebuilding the box, would have been nice to throw a new one in but i'm about 10 years too late lol.

So the part number for 3rd gear here that is still available for the later series boxes https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/3226112u14 - has anyone seen one of these side by side with the older gears and know what the difference is, eg dimensions, number or angle of teeth, etc?

ok so it would seem the gears have the same amount of teeth, but the difference may be where on the face where the synchro sits. Older type is recessed slightly>>

20190912_172415.thumb.jpg.70605e24ca860317477592a2121b4f99.jpg

 

whereas El Nouveau, the modern styler...is a flat face, blyat

1492916767384_bulletin.jpg.d0698fe3dd8dd008c00f79e3b5b46d59.jpg

 

however this is only from OCD googling in between bouts of Pornhub: not seen them firsthand to compare.

  • 2 weeks later...

further to this, all parts have arrived some put in some reassembling time on the weekend. 

To note, the 3rd-4th coupler/slider part number 32611-AA51A does not work, and not a suitable replacement on it's own. The slider fits and slides fine across the gears, but will not accept the inserts used on the earlier 3>4 slider, only the newer style. Never mind...

 

on a side note, anyone want to buy a new 3>4 gear coupler.

On 04/09/2019 at 7:22 PM, BK said:

you are going to need essentially the same parts as doing an OS Giken gearset into a pre 97 box.

– 3rd gear synchronizer baulk ring ( 1 x 32604-30P61)
– 4th gear synchronizer baulk ring (1 x 32604-40P61)
– Slider(1 x 32611-AA510)
– Hub Assy(1 x 32605-30P11)
– Energizer inserts(3 x 32609-70L15)
– Energizer insert springs (2 x 32603-30P00)

I'll check but I think that's it, unless you use the above in pre 97 stuff.

you know if that's all it takes, I wouldn't have been far off $$ wise buying that gear outright. Originally I was under the impression it also involved buying a new countershaft and input shaft too. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...