Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes, it is most likely a turbo timer. If not in the alarm, back in the day they were pretty common as an extra box plugged into the back of the key switch's wiring. Take off the plastic under the steering column, trace back the large wires from the back of the key switch, and see if they lead to a small electronic box.

If so, they generally have 2 plugs (one male, one female) so you can just unplug both, move the box, and then just plug the remaining wires in the car back together to remove it.

Does the car turn off when you release the handbrake?

It should, if it doesn't whoever wired up the turbo timer and/or built in turbo timer in the alarm should be shot and have their hands cut off.

Also, turbo timers are gay.

48 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Does the car turn off when you release the handbrake?

It should, if it doesn't whoever wired up the turbo timer and/or built in turbo timer in the alarm should be shot and have their hands cut off.

Aaw, c'mon. Two points here. 1) Whilst I understand why the TT design includes the handbrake interlock, wiring it in is a complete pain in the arse, both in terms of actually wiring it in, and also in terms of having to pull on the handbrake before you turn off the key.

And 2)

50 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Also, turbo timers are gay.

 

  • Haha 1

I thought the whole point of a water cooled turbo was that it would keep the oil from coking?

Also not that difficult to just avoid getting into boost for the last minute or two of driving, sit there for 10-15 seconds idling before key off. Super simple and no need to screw up your harness with shoddy wiring.

30 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

I thought the whole point of a water cooled turbo was that it would keep the oil from cooking?

Exactly!!!!!!!!!!

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...