Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing HKS F-Con IS

Links

By Links,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Links Veteran

Links

Posted
Posted

Afternoon all,

I've got an HKS F-CON IS piggy back ECU that came with the car from Japan and am looking to swap it out with a Nistune ECU.

Before I go ripping stuff out, I wanted to see if anyone had any experience removing one and whether it is just as simple as unattaching everything and removing the harness / ECU and replacing it back into the stock one or if anything is rewired in any way.

Appreciate the response!

Links

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479047-removing-hks-f-con-is/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Links said:

Afternoon all,

I've got an HKS F-CON IS piggy back ECU that came with the car from Japan and am looking to swap it out with a Nistune ECU.

Before I go ripping stuff out, I wanted to see if anyone had any experience removing one and whether it is just as simple as unattaching everything and removing the harness / ECU and replacing it back into the stock one or if anything is rewired in any way.

Appreciate the response!

Links

It depends. there are plug in piggy backs into which you put your loom plug in one end and there is a plug that goes into your ecu. In that case you just unplug it and put the loom plug into the stock ecu as per standard. But these are not always available and some people painstakingly solder each wire one by one so in that case you are going to have to remove them one by one and re-solder the original connections.

Links Veteran

Links

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good question, from everything I know it's stock - i'd need to double check though - it was done in Japan and seems to be rock stock with HKS FCon IS + Exhaust + EBC...

Inevitably i'd find out quite quickly, but don't want to cause any issues.

Other option is to leave it all in and swap it all out when I put new injectors + fuel pump + ECU in - just looking to see what I can do myself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hendasto
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By Hendasto · Posted

      Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • Hendasto
      Are RBs worth building reliability wise

      By Hendasto · Posted

      At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • MBS206
      New kid on the block

      By MBS206 · Posted

      https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...