Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So im about to purchase a 30 for a e36 25/30 build and was wondering a few things so my questions are 

  • will a rb25 wiring loom need much changing apart from the e36 side of things? (ill be ordering a e36 rb25 loom)
  • for a 25 box i just need a 25 slave and starter?
  • is haltec the only real way to go ecu wise or could i nistune a 25 ecu
  • what power can stock studs handle
  • is there a reason i shouldnt use a n/a 25 head and ecu if i dont want to turbo it straight away

above all that i dont want to make big power straight away just want it to be usable 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479259-rb2530-build-questions/
Share on other sites

RB25 ECU cannot be Nistuned. You can use a Nistuned R32 ECU, with a little fiddling. Going to that effort, you should probably just use a Haltech/Link/whatever the first time. You will not get a 3L to run off a 25 NA ECU.

All RB starters fit.

Don't worry about the studs. But if you are mating a different head to a different block, then you have a prize opportunity to put ARP studs in at the outset. Don't think about it as spending more money than you need to. Think about it simply as being a bloody good idea.

There's nothing wrong with using an NA head. The best choice used to be the (now rather hard to find) R32 RB25 NA head (because no VCT).

The wiring loom, for the most part, attaches to shit on the head. Not the block. But don't go into this thinking that you won't  have to sort out some plugs and shit here and there.

i think s2  stageas and er34 rbs are supported with nisture and is there a major issue with a n/a ecu?

yeah someone mentioned rb30 starters dying using a 25 gbox is all

and yeah studs and a few other things were on the books just weather or not to do it now or later i dont know as the head will likely come off within six months for better pistons and rods 

as for the loom yeah i already have to modify the loom im getting from wiring specialties as the e36 dash needs a bmw sensor to replace a nissan one on the motor

Neo ECU is for Neo, not vanilla 25. Has some sensors that the vanilla one doesn't have, leading you to have to dick around to try to make it work. Just skip it. Do the ECU properly.

NA ECU, or any ECU for a 2.5L motor, should not be expected to fuel a 3L motor correctly without tuning. Vanilla RB25 ECUs cannot be tuned (easily - certainly don't take Nistune), ergo, they should not be contemplated for this sort of job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...