Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Both ECUS were running and the car was operational, all wiring has been checked and found to be in perfect order, this is what I've been told and have no reason to dought it.But in the back of my mind I wonder,so we will find out when the third one goes in soon. I was surprised that adaptronic was going to swap it with one of the haltech units but very disappointed they wernt going to chip in with the dyno needed to tune that ECU, after spending a hell of a lot of money I need to ease up a bit and get some driving time in and enjoy what is a awesome car, after all I wanted a new ECU for greater protection for my motor and peace of mind.

 

Wiring was checked, but was the voltage checked?

Why would they pay for dyno time? it's like DeWalt sells you a drill, then replaces it with the new Dewalt XR series and you ask them to build you a new garage (bad analogy but you get the idea).

when a problem arises its not as simple as some think, they have to find whats going on, which means time and money spent. the second unit put in still has to be put on the dyno and run to make sure everything is running properly, there's more time and money, that's my point. That would have to be one of the worst analogy's I've ever herd.If indeed the units were faulty I should be reimbursed for the time and money having to find the issues but I know that's not the way it works but I thought it was worth a try.You carn't just send the ECU back to them for a exchange without logs and the issues at hand. this is time consuming and someone will end up out of pocket.

Yeah I remember calling them last year as I'd heard good things about them. I thought they were the most arrogant, up themselves lot ever. I mentioned swapping from FC d Jetro to Haltech Elite and they basically scoffed at me for even suggesting it.

  • Like 1

I here you, its a shame at the end of the day your one tiny little peace of the puzzle they couldn't give a rats about, but they have made a big mistake this time treating a reputable business the way they have, its only going to hurt them in the long run.Word of mouth is a powerful thing.

28 minutes ago, BK said:

Yeah I remember calling them last year as I'd heard good things about them. I thought they were the most arrogant, up themselves lot ever. I mentioned swapping from FC d Jetro to Haltech Elite and they basically scoffed at me for even suggesting it.

Put it this way, you don't see many fast cars (Drag/Coota/Roll Racing/Circuit/WTAC) using a PowerFC, but if a shop insists on using a PowerFC then yeah.

Yes it might make the power, but there's no engine protection, no spare I/Os, no closed loop strategies, no anything really.

spot on Johnny, when we spend outrages amount's off money on built engines we need as many protections as possible,as you have just stated these are what all new ECUS provide today and is what people want nomatter what ECU brand they buy.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...